by Sherri Sylvester | Mar 31, 2016
Knit fabric is really rewarding to sew. It stretches, so the fit doesn’t have to be perfect – and it’s so comfy. (That’s my favorite part.) It has a bit of a bad rep for being tricky to sew, but with a few tips you can conquer knits on any sewing machine that has a zigzag stitch – no serger needed!
I learned a lot about sewing knits and hacked my old basic Janome SUV1122 like crazy to do it. Today’s post covers 12 Tips and Tricks for Sewing Knits that I’ve learned along the way, and how some fun features on the Skyline S7 help the process. Plus I got to make my youngest a really cute spring dress without my serger, entirely on the sewing machine!
Yikes, this girl was hard to take photos of yesterday! Every photo is her dancing around – so much fun to look through, I should really make a collage for our hallway. I suppose that even though the weather co-operated by giving us a “lovely” 14°C – I think she was a bit chilly (and a little bribed with lollipops!)
Disclaimer: A Skyline S7 has been loaned to me for the purpose of writing this series. As with all products I write about, I will always tell you my own honest opinion. I purchased and loved Janome machines long before they contacted me. Janome has not asked me to qualify my opinions in any way. Also, the fabric for this dress was given to me for this post by my sponsor Fabric Please! Thank you for supporting my sponsors.
This week’s project was sponsored by Fabric Please!, a lovely online Canadian fabric shop with a growing selection of knits in both solids and prints. They were kind enough to indulge me when I asked to make a Soleil dress in blue for my youngest. I promised her one last fall and it’s finally getting (almost) warm enough to wear it outside.
The main dot fabric is 100% cotton Glow, Quarter Moon by Amy Butler (*oooooh!*) and the raindrops, cotton/spandex Abundance Monsoon from Bonnie Christine (*aaaaah!*). I love how the two prints play off each other, they’re so fun in this dress.
12 Tips and Tricks for Sewing Knit Fabrics
Tip #1: Ballpoint/Jersey Needle
Make sure to buy ballpoint or jersey needles for your knit projects. The tips on regular needles are sharp and will cut tiny holes in your knits. I know from experience! A couple of machine washes and there will be little holes all down your seam.
Tip #2: Sew with a Stretch Stitch
If your machine has them available, choose a stretch stitch to sew with. This will allow your sewn seam to stretch with the stretch of the knit you are sewing. They tend to look like a lightning bolt (no’s 6 and 7 in the photo below). If your machine doesn’t have a stretch stitch, use a thin, long zigzag stitch or a triple stitch (no. 5 below) instead to allow the seam to stretch. The Skyline S7 has quite a few stretch stitches, numbers 5 – 10 and a knit stitch, no. 14 below.
Be sure to double-check your seam allowance when choosing a wide stitch (2nd photo below). The markings on your machine are based on sewing straight down the middle of the machine foot, but a wider stitch will sew to the left of that. Use your seam gauge and mark or find a new line to guide your correct seam allowance.
Tip #3: Dual Feed Device – Janome AcuFeed Flex
The AcuFeed Flex is a super-cool machine foot, and it’s the first time I’ve used a dual feed device. It is similar to a walking/even foot (next tip below), but is physically attached to the machine’s upper feed drive instead of just resting on the needle clamp screw bar. This means it is mechanically moving the top layer of fabric forward at the same speed as the feed dogs move the bottom layer of fabric forward. The results are so good! It totally eliminates the stretching you would normally get when sewing knits.
This foot is also great for seams in leather and oil cloth – both of which tend to stick to a normal presser foot. Matching plaids, quilting and seaming other slippery specialty fabrics is much easier because the layers of fabric are moving together. The dual feed can also be balanced with the dial on the side of the machine for when you are seaming two different types of fabrics and one feeds faster than the other.
Tip #4: Walking/Even Foot
This foot does a similar job to the AcuFeed Flex in Tip #3. A Walking foot is really helpful when sewing knits, and it is what I have used previous to the S7. The bar on the walking foot rests on the needle clamp screw bar, which feeds the upper layer of fabric at the same time as the feed dogs move the lower layer along.
To comment on it in comparison to the AcuFeed Flex – I do notice more stretching with the walking foot. The AcuFeed Flex is more accurate – likely due to it being directly attached to the machine’s feed drive. The fabric moves through together more mechanically with almost no slippage on the top layer of fabric.
Tip #5: Use a Twin Needle
Twin needle sewing seems complicated, but it’s not as bad as it looks! Two spools are fed down from the top of the machine and one bobbin thread stitches the bottom of the seam together. The threading path can be found in your machine manual. You can also read this post about double/twin needles and how to thread your machine, where I sewed pyjamas using my basic Janome SUV1122 a few years ago.
The twin needle stitch is really stretchy and a great option for sewing knits. It also looks really professional when used for hems and topstitching. You can get different widths of double needles. I like the one with a 1/4″ space for hemming. The 1/8″ one would be better for sewing seams.
Tip #8 – Overedge Foot
First off, my apologies for the fuzzies in this photo, oops! Moving on… This foot is great for making a serger-like overcasting stitch on both woven and knit fabrics. I used it to seam the dress’ pockets using the Knit Stitch available on the Skyline S7. The fabric runs beside the black bar on the foot making it really easy to stitch right along the edge of the fabric. You can see how it turned out in Tip #10 below!
Tip #9: Top Stitching and Edge Stitching
Straight stitches are not really recommended for sewing knits, because they don’t stretch with the fabric. However, I’ve successfully used them for topstitching with a few tweaks. (Though I’d still recommend a twin needle if the fabric is really stretchy.)
Make sure to lengthen your stitch. Instead of sewing with my general length 3, I used a length 4 straight stitch to topstitch this project. Also, it is good to slightly stretch the fabric while stitching to allow the final seam to stretch just a bit more.
Tip #6: Use Tissue Paper
If your knits are not behaving, you can place strips of tissue paper underneath (and over top!) of your seam while sewing them. Then remove the tissue once the seam is finished. This prevents the knit from being stretched by the presser foot pressure. I’ve used it a lot on hems for really stretchy thin knits.
Tip #7: Start off with a “Thread Handle”
This tip comes straight from the lovely Linda Pidzamecky, educational consultant for Janome. She gave me a really helpful tour of the Skyline S7 before I brought it home.
Starting a seam on knits can be tricky since the needle likes to bury the edge of the fabric into the needle plate. To stop this: Pull a longish spool thread out to the back of the machine, insert the needle into the fabric, and hold the thread gently while starting the seam. This has totally changed how I begin knit seams and it would work great for thin wovens and specialty fabrics as well!
Tip #10: Press and Starch
Thinner knit fabrics can tend to roll up on the edges making them hard to cut out and seam. To reduce this, use spray starch and a good pressing to unroll them enough to be able to cut out and stitch them more easily. Pressing also helps to reduce stretched seams. I stitched these two pockets below, then pressed the upper one flat with a bit of steam to show you the difference.
Tip #11: Change the Pressure of the Presser Foot
If your machine allows it, reduce the presser foot pressure to allow the knit fabric to slide through the machine with less stretching. Check your manual for how to do this and do a test seam to make sure the change in pressure will still feed the fabric through properly.
Tip #12: Use Clear Elastic
This elastic is genius! Zigzag baste it onto a seam in your knit project to reduce stretching while sewing and during wear. It is great on heavy seams like the Soleil dress waistline – where the heaviness of the gathered skirt might pull the waist seam down. It’s also great for shoulder seams in drop shoulder and dolman sleeves – again, to reduce the pull from the heavy sleeve.
Next week is going to be so much fun, I can’t wait! I’ve been collecting ideas about how to embellish your projects and I finally get to share them with you. See you then!
by Sherri Sylvester | Mar 24, 2016
I hope you are enjoying getting to know your sewing machine! This week I worked with heavier fabrics, using the on-loan Janome Skyline S7 to sew layers of leather, canvas and denim. From a mini Forest Glen Satchel (it’s b-a-ack!) to the necessity of hemming jeans. Find 5 Steps to conquering tension and the thicker fabrics you want to sew, plus a link to a tutorial on how to hem jeans my favorite way. It’s so easy you might not even mind doing it! (P.S. There’s a giveaway! You have a chance to win the same fabric used for the satchel from Mad About Patchwork!)
As a side note, my husband has been waiting especially for this week because I avoid hemming pretty much everything over here. I have to give him tons of credit – he’s really nice about it, and I know rolling his jeans drives him crazy. Note to self: #mustdoabetterjob
Disclaimer: A Skyline S7 has been loaned to me for the purpose of writing this series. As with all products I write about, I will always tell you my own honest opinion. I purchased and loved Janome machines long before they contacted me. Janome has not asked me to qualify my opinions in any way. Also, the fabric for the mini Satchel was given to me for this post by my sponsor Mad About Patchwork. Thank you for supporting my sponsors!
5 Steps to Proper Tension when Sewing Thick Fabrics
If you want to sew thicker fabrics we need to talk about tension. It’s really important to know how to set the tension on your machine properly. Too tight, and the tension will cause puckers and gathering. Too loose, and the seam will not be strong – or may even fall apart. Surprisingly, also – there are quite a few issues that you can run into with thicker fabrics that look like tension problems, but are really related to other areas of your machine.
I chose to make a super thick canvas and leather layered mini Forest Glen Satchel to test the Skyline S7 this week. Lucky for it, it performed beautifully! This mini version of my satchel pattern has been in the works for a few years now and I’m finally on the home-stretch and hoping to re-release the pattern to include both sizes before the summer.
This mini Satchel is sewn from a gorgeous mix of organic Acorn Trail Canvas from Birch Fabrics and Carolyn Friedlander’s Architextures in Poppy. Both from my Canadian sponsor Mad About Patchwork. The two go so well together, plus the added leather details make it look super professional. I’m so proud of the finished product. My kids and I will be fighting over this one for sure!
The things that we’ve sewn in the Diary project so far haven’t really needed a tension adjustment. Sewing machines come set to an average setting that is also found in your manual and usually marked on the tension dial. However, when you are working with thicker and thinner/specialty fabrics you may need to adjust the tension to get the best seam possible.
Step 1: Read your manual. I know, I say it every week – but it’s the best first step. What does your machine manual tell you about tension and the type of fabric you are sewing?
Step 2: Make sure you are using the correct needle. Use a denim needle for denim, leather needle for leather etc. and make sure it is changed often.
Step 3: Slow down. Make sure you are sewing at the correct speed for the fabric you are using. If you have a speed control slider like the Skyline S7 I’m using, notch it down a bit through heavier fabrics.
Step 4: Switch out your needle plate. If you have a straight stitch plate this can really help when sewing thicker or thinner fabrics. The plate has a small hole where the needle enters the bobbin area and will better support the fabric around the needle area as it is sewn, creating a cleaner stitch. The S7 has an included straight stitch plate and it’s really easy to change! I posted a video this morning so you can see it in action. #easypeasylemonsqueezy
Step 5: Check your thread. Make sure the thread you are using is recommended for your fabric type to avoid problems. I used regular polyester thread for the satchel and lots of other leather projects I’ve sewn and it’s held up fine. Do a little research to find out what’s best for you.
Now, make a test seam. Layer small scraps of the fabrics you will be sewing, including interfacing if needed, and stitch through them using the appropriate needle/speed/plate and thread. Try to pull them apart gently, if needed, to see how the bobbin and spool threads meet up. It’s easiest to see if you can do this with two different thread colours.
The photo above shows the test I made for the Satchel I sewed this week. Two layers of Canvas, two layers of leather and two layers of fusible fleece. The bobbin and spool threads meet right in the middle, and don’t seem to be pulling too little or too much. Granted, I may have cheated a little since the Skyline S7 has automatic computerized tension and a Heavy Fabric setting. Can’t complain about that!
What if your tension is not correct? Your machine will have a dial, button or screen where you can change the upper thread tension. Lower numbers loosen the tension, higher numbers tighten the tension. Here is a very simple guide on how to change your tension:
- Gathering or puckering? Your tension is likely too tight – loosen it by changing the tension to a lower number
- Loose or missing stitches? Your tension is likely too loose – tighten it by changing the tension to a higher number
Just like in science class – change one variable at a time. Don’t tighten tension from 2 to 9 all at once. Change the tension a few steps and test each one as you go to find the perfect setting for your machine.
Hemming Jeans
Hemming jeans saves you a trip to the tailor and some cash, sounds good to me! Especially now that you know how to adjust your tension for the thickness of the denim.
I generally hem my jeans leaving the original hem in tact. It took me about 10 minutes to hem my husband’s jeans last night, using the free arm on the Skyline S7 – all the more reason for me not to delay in the future! I can’t locate my original bookmark, but I did find one on my favorite fashion/sewing blogger’s site – Merrick’s Art. Here’s a tutorial on how to hem jeans while keeping the original hem. Of course there are more technically sound ways of doing this, but it works – and it’s quick – which is nice!
Mad about Patchwork has provided a discount of 10% off all orders until March 31, 2016!
Use the code TRH10 at the checkout to get your discount. Enjoy!
Mad About Patchwork is generously giving away a 3/4 yard cut of each of these gorgeous fabrics to one lucky sewist. I can’t wait to see what you will make with it!
This giveaway is open to everyone, internationally! From today (March 24th) until midnight March 31, 2016. Use the Rafflecopter widget below to enter – and if you don’t have Facebook to sign in with, just use your name and email address. There’s a “click to enter”, no social media login entry too!
a Rafflecopter giveaway
by Sherri Sylvester | Mar 17, 2016
Do buttonholes and zipper installations get you feelin’ like “Where’s my Velcro stash again?” Even if they don’t make you to run in the other direction, chances are with a new machine (or an old one!) there’s something you don’t know.
Welcome to Week 2 of the Sewing Diaries: the Closures Edition. This past week I’ve been learning about how to make buttonholes and install a zipper on the Janome Skyline S7 that’s been loaned to me. I think it’s the second most important thing to learn on a machine – unless you are a quilter, in which case I suppose it is not as vital and you could skip this week. WAIT! What am I saying? I’m a blogger and writing is my paycheck! Rephrase: “Always – Read – Every – Word!” #noskippingallowed
Disclaimer: A Skyline S7 has been loaned to me for the purpose of writing this series. As with all products I write about, I will always tell you my own honest opinion. I purchased and loved Janome machines long before they contacted me. Janome has not asked me to qualify my opinions in any way.
Depending on how complex your sewing machine is, there can be a learning curve to how each manufacturer has set up each process. Once you have made a a few buttonholes and installed a zipper I promise they won’t feel so foreign! I’ve included a round-up of tutorials for both buttonholes and zippers below so you can feel confident. As always, it is best to always check your manual, because machines vary so much.
Sewing Buttonholes
I started sewing my girls’ Easter dresses, which have a total of 43 1/2 yards of tulle between them! (Insane I tell you! *edit: They are finished! See the Easter Dresses here.) Anyhow, they each require two buttonholes and so this was a good opportunity to learn how to do it on the Skyline S7. The above photo has a button sewing foot in it as well – but since the buttons I picked have curved edges it wasn’t a good time to try it. I’ll have to post the process on Instagram in the future.
There are a variety of ways machines are set up to make buttonholes, and some basic models don’t have buttonhole feet as an option. I’ve had experience using a SUV1122, 2030QDC, Skyline S5 and of course the S7. My experience being limited to Janome’s (since that’s what I always purchase and love) is that these models all have a similar One-Step Automatic Buttonhole process. The thing that differs is the number of buttonhole shape options – and how you can change their sizes and how precicely they are sewn. Options range from 1 straight buttonhole option on the SUV1122 to 10+ options on the Skyline S7 depending on how you set it up. We also have a New Home 1/2 size for my youngest without a buttonhole option. I’ve included a tutorial for machines without buttonhole feet in the roundup as well.
The Skyline S7 also has a stabilizer plate that I haven’t used before, but really enjoyed. It is used when a buttonhole is near a thick hem or other seam, to hold the area flat. I tried to compare buttonholes with and without the stabilizer plate for you. Unfortunatly, I think both of these buttonholes need the plate because the right side of the top buttonhole got a bit stuck and when I tugged on it it made some wide stitches. Oops… that’ll teach me to always use the stabilizing plate! #loveyourseamripper I re-sewed the top buttonhole and it looks great now. (Here’s a quick Instagram video of the S7 Buttonhole process.)
I’m hoping to finish the dresses (read: gather 23 1/2 yards of tulle, sew them together, repeat for a second dress… argh!) and take photos this weekend, but it snowed last year on Easter and this weekend is looking pretty chilly. I’m going to have to get creative with the location! (* edit – they are finished! See the Easter Dresses here.)
Buttonhole Tutorial Round-Up
Here are some tutorials, including a video and one that doesn’t need a buttonhole foot! Through reading these tutorials, I learned that you can use Fray Check on your buttonhole to make sure the inside threads don’t fray. #genius
Buttonhole Without a Buttonhole Foot ~ Manual 4-Step Buttonhole ~ Automatic One Step Buttonhole ~ Video, Automatic One Step Buttonhole
Sewing with a Zipper Foot
Choosing a zipper project for this week’s post was a no-brainer. I’ve been wanting to make another Cat-Eye Zippered Pouch for a while now. I had a peek at the hashtag #cateyepouch yesterday and it is so fun to see what everyone is making. I am so flattered that you all like my free pattern!
I went with the obvious and used Lizzy House Catnap cat fabric for my Cat-Eye pouch! I love the combination of this wrinkly dobby linen with the smooth quilting cotton and a bright zipper. This pouch is destined to be my Kindle cover since I think it’s my new favorite… though, they are all my favorites. Oh well – what good is it to choose anyhow!
There are so many ways to install zippers, and even different zipper types. The capabilities of the S7 far exceed what is needed for this pouch’s super-simple zipper installation. No matter what type you choose, there is a tutorial somewhere on the interwebs for it. And chances are your manual will cover off how to make it work as well. I’ve included 4 types of zipper installations in the tutorial Round-Up below.
Specifically on the S7 machine, you can choose a lapped or a concealed zipper from the LCD screen. My zip wasn’t exactly either one, so I chose the Lapped Zipper, Right Side stitch to move the needle to the correct position. LOVE not moving the needle over by eye! Of course you can set it up manually as well, the preset buttons just take the guess work out of the process. Changing the foot was simple. My Janome machines all have “Easy Change” feet – just click the foot in and out of the machine. I used to need a screwdriver and generic zipper foot with my previous SUV1122 because it’s default “easy change” zipper foot is one-sided and wider than I liked, not as convenient for sure!
Oh, and don’t forget, zipper feet are also not just for zippers. Sewing close to thicker edges and using it to install piping and pompom trim are just a few other things you can use it for.
Zipper Tutorial Round-Up
I’ve tried to narrow down this round-up to general use zipper installations. But, I couldn’t resist adding in the one on how to match your fabric, it really is easier than it looks!
Basic Zipper Installation ~ Lapped Zipper Installation ~ Invisible Zipper with Video ~ Exactly Match Fabric Across a Zipper Opening
I hope you’ve learned a lot today! I’m having fun because this series lets more of my passion for making sewing easy and accessible out into the world! Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to help you out.
Next Week we’ll be talking about Sewing Heavier Fabrics. I get to make an oldie (but goodie!) Follow along on social media to find out what it will be!
by Sherri Sylvester | Mar 11, 2016
Welcome to the second installment of this week’s Sewing Diaries! Yesterday we talked about: 1) Unboxing the Machine, 2) Preparing to take care of it and 3) Learning what it can do.
Now we are ready to sew! Today we talk about getting the machine ready, two projects I chose to sew first, (and why!) plus a bonus tip and tutorial for them. (BTW, isn’t the Sewing Diaries logo amazing? It was made by fellow Janome Artisan and amazing graphic artist Cynthia Frenette for this project – #loveit! )
Meet Your New Machine – Step 4: Get Ready to Sew!
It is important to learn how to get a bobbin wound, thread the machine, and insert the bobbin correctly.
Again, this information is in your manual, or on your included instructional DVD. (Yay S7!) All of my Janome machines have had a similar thread path, but each has been a little different. I like to make sure I’m doing it correctly the first time because it’s harder to change once you’ve memorized it incorrectly! A tip when threading the machine: It is important to use a spool holder to hold your thread on the spool pin. Make sure it is the correct size, the S7 comes with large and small size thread caps. (For reference, I’ve used the small cap in the photo below.)
When filling the bobbin, note the correct winding direction for the thread in your manual. When filling it, most machines will stop once the bobbin is full, then you can cut the threads. The S7 includes 5 small cutters under the bobbin area for right before you wind it, and one for cutting the main thread once you are done. #noscissorsnecessary
When threading your machine, follow the path and be sure to pull the threads as indicated in your manual to ensure the tension discs are engaged. Don’t skip threading through that tiny hook right above your needle! Use a needle threader to thread the needle, or the automatic threader if your machine has one. I made an Instagram video of the advanced needle threader on the S7. It is truly amazing!
The bobbin should be inserted as per the manual again. Noting that it is especially important to insert it so it spins the way your machine wants it to. My Janome machines have needed the bobbin to spin counter-clockwise.
Meet Your New Machine – Step 5: Sew a Simple Project (or two!)
Alright, we are ready to sew now. I think the best way to start out is to make a simple first project without any closures, leave the buttonholes and zipper feet for The Sewing Diaries – Week 2. I decided to make two of my all-time most popular tutorials, The fat-quarter friendly Sunny Glasses Case and the Pretty Floral Divided Tote.
Both of these are really quick and satisfying projects. Good for confident beginners and advanced sewers alike. They allow you to use your new machine to make something useful and fun, while not having to reach for your manual with each step. (P.S. I changed a few things from both original tutorials, so I’m sharing a tip and a mini tutorial for them at the end of this post.)
I broke out my hoarded Mochi Dot linen for these, and some Paris fabric my mom gave me years ago. It’s so gorgeous I’ve been saving it for the perfect project (and I’ve got some left still, yay!) You can never go wrong with linen, canvas and polka dots!
Meet Your New Machine – Step 6: Plan to test your machine
One great way to test your machine is to tackle your mending pile. There is usually a varied selection of fabrics, lots of knits and wovens of different weights to work with. It even provides different situations such as mending a pant leg by using the free arm or fixing a ripped tee with an overcasting stitch.
The second way to test your machine is to plan several specific projects that use different features of your sewing machine. This is the way I am going to write the Sewing Diaries, since I’m sure you are not interested in seeing my mending pile. (I’m pretty sure I don’t want you to see it either!)
How to Choose Your First Projects
- Incorporate fabric types that you tend to already sew. Save the uncommon ones for another time, unless you bought your machine specifically to use it for an uncommon fabric you want to learn to sew.
- Incorporate feet that you will use all the time. Buttonhole, Zipper foot, Blind or Rolled Hem foot – sew a woven dress. 1/4″ Foot, free motion quilting feet – make a quilt. AcuFeed Flex, Overedge foot, zigzag foot – choose a simple knit top.
- Find projects that are simple or ones you’ve sewn before. Learning a new machine might be frustrating because you are not familiar with where everything is or how it works yet. Choosing a complex project will just add to your frustration and it would be so sad if you quit!
This process resulted in me writing the The Sewing Diaries Overview you found at the beginning of yesterday’s post. But, no matter what projects you choose, make sure your manual is on hand to help as you go along – you may need to know how to use a certain stitch, install the knee lift, or change the default height of presser foot for pivoting (Yup, the Skyline S7 can do that!).
I found out how to use one of my favorite features when I was checking the manual for something else, a tiny black button on the back of the S7 zigzag foot. If you push it in while lowering the presser foot it will lock the foot in a horizontal position. Meaning, if the front of the foot is elevated on some thick fabric, the back of the foot will stay elevated until you are past the beginning of the seam ! It helps your seam to begin smoothly when sewing thick or layered fabrics like the french seam on my Sunny Glasses Case.
The Pretty Floral Divided Tote is made with just 1 yard each of outer and lining fabric. I had just a bit less than that, so I slightly shortened the pattern piece and also omitted using the lining fabric on the Straps. Instead I used 1 1/2″ webbing and sewed strips of outer fabric over the front to add detail. Here is a mini tutorial on how to make some yourself.
- Cut 2 OUTER Straps: 1 1/2″ x 21″, Cut 2 from Fusible Fleece: 7/8″ wide by 21″, Cut 2 pieces of 1 1/2″ webbing 21″ long.
- Fuse the Fleece to the wrong side of the Outer Straps, directly in the centre of each piece.
- Fold the Outer Strap fabric over the fusible fleece on both sides. Use the edge of the fleece as a guide.
- Glue Baste the Outer fabric to the centre of each length of webbing.
- Top-stitch the Outer Fabric on both sides about 1/8″ away from the edge to finish the strap.
Each time I make a Sunny Glasses Case I find a new and improved way of sewing it. I have been collecting tips for at least a year now and plan to post them sometime soon! For now, however, one thing that makes a big difference to the final product is a very simple step. Instead of only using Fusible Fleece on the Outer fabric, cut a second layer and fuse it to the wrong side of the Lining as well. The extra padding makes the case sturdier. It holds it’s shape better and looks more professional.
Thanks for checking out the first installment of the Sewing Diaries. I can’t wait to tackle learning about closures this coming week! They open up a whole new area of your sewing. Remember you can come #alongforthreadride anytime to see sneak peeks and project photos!
by Sherri Sylvester | Mar 10, 2016
Sewing on a new machine, or even infrequently on an old one might make you wonder how best to learn about it. Even a seasoned sewer doesn’t likely know everything their sewing machine has to offer – and how do you go about planning to learn?
I felt this way a few weeks ago when Janome gave me the opportunity to use their new machine – the Skyline S7. It has so many features it’s hard to know where to start! Short answer is: #allthehearts for this machine…. Long answer is this and the next five weeks of this new series.
Welcome to the first ever The Sewing Diaries – Meet Your New Machine! Janome asked me if I’d like to write about how you can easily learn to use your new sewing machine. I know some of you are thinking, “Why can’t I just start sewing?” And of course you can… but I think it would be helpful to go about it a little more slowly. Try to stop the urge to pick up a project right away – I know you can do it. By step 4 of this week’s process you’ll be a pro at knowing your machine, and the sewing will come easily after that!
This week I am sharing what I think are the best 6 Steps to Unboxing your Machine. This post accidentally became ridiculously long so full of awesome information *winky face* because I am long winded thorough, so I’ve decided to split it into two parts! The overview and first 3 steps today and the last 3 steps and tutorial tomorrow.
During this 6 week series I will talk a lot about the Janome Skyline S7 because, *spoiler alert* these posts are made specifically for it! But, don’t be discouraged, my ultimate goal is to provide you with information about how to learn about your sewing machine, Janome or not! Each installment of The Sewing Diaries will list step-by-step ways you can get to know YOUR amazing machine. I am being extra careful to make each post applicable whether you own a budget basic, or the latest and fanciest model available.
Disclaimer: Janome has loaned me a Skyline S7 for the purposes of writing these Sewing Diary posts. Please know, as with all products I write about, that I always tell you my own honest opinion. I bought and loved Janome products long before they contacted me and they have not asked me to qualify my opinions in any way.
The Sewing Diaries – Meet Your New Machine! Overview
This diary and sewn topic-related projects are happening in real time! One topic per week. This gives you a chance to follow along with your new machine. You can see sneak peeks of the projects as they are sewn on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and Pinterest.
Here is what we will talk about: Week 2: Closures ~ Week 3: Heavy/Uncommon Fabrics~ Week 4: Knits (without a serger!) ~ Week 5: Embellishing your Projects (ie. Stitches and Machine Feet) ~ Week 6: Quilting/Piecing
This Sewing Diaries series ends right before the Creativ Festival in Toronto where I am excited to be presenting a Trunk Show once each day. I will be showing off these Skyline projects, some of my older favorites and giving tips and tricks to make your sewing easier and more fun! Plus, the Grand Prize at the Festival is your chance to win a Janome Skyline S7!
Let’s get started!
Meet your New Machine – Step 1: Un-boxing
After you wrangle your new machine out of it’s packaging and up onto your table, *oof* where do you start? To stay organized, first put away all of the extras that came with your sewing machine. That way you have seen them all and can keep track of them while learning the machine.
Putting these pieces away also helps to make sure you have everything you should! For example, when I unpacked the S7 I thought the cord for it’s extra-large foot pedal was missing. A quick consult with the manual shows it wound up neatly in the bottom of the pedal, in it’s own covered compartment – high five for that one Janome! One of my pet peeves is tangled, messy cords.
If you can, store everything in the body of your machine. This way all the pieces stay together when you take your machine out. If you don’t have a storage area in your machine – find an appropriately sized container (or sew one – just not yet!). Thankfully, the Skyline S7 has a lot of storage space. A flip-down compartment at the front and a shallow tray underneath the extension table. The top of this machine even has a small space I use to hold needle cases for the current needle type I’m using.
Meet Your New Machine – Step 2: Mentally prepare to take care of your investment
This might not be the most fun to think about right away, but I think this step is really important. Taking good care of your machine will help it to last longer. Cleaning your machine and taking it in for maintenance on a regular basis helps you to get great tension and straight stitches every time you sew. It also helps when you all of a sudden *need* to sew that great new project you just found – without any machine issues!
Find your manual and head to the section called Care and Maintenance and look it over. I was really happy to find that the Skyline S7 does not need to be oiled, Hooray! The back of the S7 manual tells how to clean the bobbin (or hook area) and thread guide, and recommends they are cleaned once a month. I figure, if the vacuum cleaner is out once a week to rid my office floor of threads, it can’t hurt to take off the needle plate and get rid of any excess build up there as well!
As a general rule, I found out that these machines work best when regularly cleaned and that machine needles should be replaced after about 8 hours of sewing. These are good guidelines for any machine type. I’ve learned over the last year that changing your needle (and using the right type) can drastically improve your stitches.
Meet Your New Machine – Step 3: What can your sewing machine do?
You probably know this, since you bought the machine – otherwise you wouldn’t have it, right? Even so, there are probably a few things to learn. Take a few minutes to overview the basics by scanning the brochure, manual or even the outside of the box!
Here’s a shortened run-down for the S7:
- Automatic presser foot lift, 240 stitches, multiple alphabets, 15 included feet, 9mm stitch width, 5mm stitch length. Full colour backlit LCD touchscreen. AcuFeed Flex feeding system (it’s a souped-up walking/even foot and it’s amazing!). Stitch Composer with software for designing custom stitches. Computerized tension, automatic foot pressure, advanced needle threader, free arm, drop feed, thread cutter, adjustable knee lift. It also has an included second needle plate, only for straight stitching a start/stop button and more. *whew!*
Some features won’t be apparent until you scan information about the different feet or read how to use them. A random fact I found out through stalking a few blogs is that the S7 can apparently learn the length you stitch when strip piecing and repeat it, stopping and cutting the threads between blocks. Other things are more subtle, like the backward stitch. It sews backwards continuously and is great for things like mending a ripped pant leg when you can’t easily pivot to stitch the other direction and need both hands to sew straight.
See you Tomorrow with Part 2!
Now that you’ve collected all this information, only one more step and you will be sewing! Tomorrow I’ll share the rest of this week’s information, a mini-tutorial, and more about the projects I made this past week.
