Thread Riding Hood

Scalloped Edge Basket Tutorial {a fat quarter project}

by | Mar 12, 2014

In case you are wondering, I haven’t disappeared! I’ve been working on some fun graphic design projects for our company that have been using some of my sewing time. I’ve been bitten by the “spring sewing” bug and have lots of plans… I just need to hit some deadlines first!

I thought I’d pop by today to let you know why I’m super excited! Remember the little zakka-inspired Scalloped Edge Basket I made last year?

I’ve written a tutorial for the basket for Sew Mama Sew and it posted today – now you can make one too! I’ve added an optional handle to the tutorial too, which is perfect for a little Easter basket. (Just in case you are planning ahead!) The basket on its own is great for a little gift basket, or for collecting all of those little things in your house that need a home. It’s a good size, so it holds a lot without being too huge. And – bonus, it uses your favorite fat quarters!

Right now, since I managed to win the rights to the gray one, I have filled it up with my wooden spools and vintage measuring tape. It looks so cute sitting in my sewing room! The kids have had words over the pink basket already and now I need to make another one so they can both have one for Easter. I hope you like it! Find the tutorial on Sew Mama Sew.

Terrific Tuesday – Quilted Classroom Mat {a tutorial}

by | Feb 18, 2014

We had a great holiday yesterday. A few years ago they invented “Family Day” and decided to give us an extra day off in February – not complaining about that! Our family enjoyed a busy day at the Art Gallery of Ontario. Lots of fun to be had by all! The new project? Honestly,”Quilted Classroom Mat” is not the catchiest name. But my daughter uses it in her class for their daily Yoga-time, Snack-time, Reading-time and Story-time, we tried “The Quilted Y-S-R-S-time Mat” – not so good!

I bought a single bed size Vyssa Tulta quilted mattress pad from Ikea about 8 months ago because it was on sale for $5. I figured I would eventually find something I could sew with it. When my daughter’s teacher asked that everyone bring in a mat to use in class, I knew what it was for. It makes a perfect mat, thin enough to roll easily and thick enough to be comfortable.

Of course it was very important to my daughter that the mat to be made in some kind of rainbow-related fashion, so I pulled out my longer scraps and the only 3 purple fabrics available in my stash and thankfully they worked out well! I also happened to have about 1/2 a fat quarter of  rainbow fabric to make the binding from, which apparently is very exciting also – remember, she’s in grade 1! She also picked the ladybug flannel for the back. I had this one stored in my fabric shelf waiting to make some pj’s. I think I picked it up at Fabricland for about $3 in the ends bin.

I used the quilt-as-you-go (QAYG) method to put together the quilt top. And a bias tape folded binding for the edges. I think it is quite possible that this might actually count as a quilt finish?? (Maybe? Yippee!?) And it used up large scraps of about 5 of my fabrics too – bonus! I really love QAYG, it’s quick and simple to understand. Since it turned out so cute I thought you might want to make one too? It would also make a quick cute little baby playmat!

You will need:

  • 36″ x 18″ piece from a mattress pad or similar thickness
  • 13 fabric strips – 3.25″x 20″
  • 145″ (about 4 yards) of 1/2″ double fold bias tape
  • backing fabric – aprox. 22″ x 40″ (I used flannel)
  • strap fabric – 1 piece 6″x12″
  • velcro
  • your regular sewing supplies

Here we go:

Step 1: (a) Cut your mattress pad down to 36″x18″. Mine was crib size, so I still have lots left over to play with again sometime! (b) Trace a round object to create rounded corners on the mat and cut them out.

Step 2: Arrange your 13 fabric strips so you are happy with their placement on the mat. If you have a digital camera/phone around, take a photo so you remember the order they go in. Either way, stack them in order so that the left-most pieces are on the bottom of the stack. (You will notice I had 14 fabric strips in the photos. I found my measurements were off and I couldn’t fit the last strip on as I finished the mat. Don’t worry, I fixed up the measurements for this tutorial!)

Step 3: (a) Place your first fabric strip on the end of your mattress pad. Place the next strip on top, right sides together. Pin the inside edge. (b) Roll up the other end of the mattress pad and secure with clips or clothespins to make it easier to handle when sewing.

Step 4: (a) Stitch along the inside edge of your fabrics with a 1/4″ seam. (b) Open up your fabrics at the seam and smooth them down. (c) Place the next fabric strip on top of the one you just stitched, right sides together. Pin and then stitch the inner most edge with a 1/4″ seam.

Step 5: (a) Continue to place, pin and stitch each strip until you have sewn on all 13. (b) Baste the outside edges of the beginning and ending strips to the ends of the mattress pad.

Step 6: (a) Smooth out your backing fabric and place it right side down on a large flat surface. Place the quilted mattress pad in the centre, right side up. (b) Draw a line down the centre of each strip with a water soluble marker (blue in the photo). Pin the mattress pad securely to the backing fabric. I pinned down the centre of each strip. (This is where I wished I had bent safety pins instead of quilting pins – ouch!)

Step 7: Stitch down each marked line. I used my regular sewing foot with a slightly longer (basting-style) stitch. Be careful to avoid pins. Check that you have not created any tucks in the backing fabric.

Step 8: (a) Make/Unwrap your bias tape. (b) Pin the bias tape around the edge of your mat. Begin and end in a straight section and leave a 3″ tail on each end. Note: Let 1/8″ of your bias tape hang over the edge of the mat when you are pinning. This will help everything to fit when you finish the edge.

Step 9: (a) Stitch the bias tape on by sewing along the fold line closest to the edge of the mat. (b) Begin and end 3″ apart, leaving the extra bias tape at each end. (c) Match the bias tape ends neatly as per this Sew Essential tutorial – but do not fold/stitch it over the edge of the mat just yet.

Step 10: I followed this Cluck Cluck Sew tutorial to attach my bias tape. This mat, however, has rounded corners and needs a bias cut binding so it is a bit different. (a) Fold the bias tape all around the edge of the mat and pin as per Allison’s directions. I pinned horizontally and vertically to the fabric edge depending on where I was pinning. (b) Stitch around the binding as she instructs, ignoring the directions for the mitered corners.

Step 11: (a) Fold/Iron under 1/4″ on the short ends of each strap piece. Hold it down with pins or a glue stick. (b) Fold the piece lengthwise in half and then fold the edges into the centre. (c) Fold the entire strap in half again along the centre line. (d) Stitch around all edges of the strap close to the edge.

Step 12: (a) Cut the strap in half so you have two equal lengths. (b) Attach 2 pieces of Velcro 2″ long on each end side-by side. I like to make an X to hold it in place better. One strap will have 2 pieces of hook-side Velcro, the other will have 2 pieces of soft-side Velcro. (c) Stitch the soft-side Velcro strap along the first quilting seam. Leave 1/2″ of the strap on the side closest to the end of the mat, as per the photo. (d) Fold the strap over itself (hiding the raw end) and stitch it to the mat. Again, an X shape will secure it well.

Step 13: (a) Attach the hook-side Velcro strap to the soft side. Roll the mat up so you can mark the placement of the strap. (b) Roll the strap around the rolled mat to find where it needs to be attached. Pin as per the photo – marking edges and 1/2″ up from the end of the strap.

Step 14: (a) Unroll the mat and place the hook-side Velcro strap within your pinned markings. The end should be 1/2″ past the pin marking the end placement. (b) Stitch the end of the strap with a 1/2″ seam. (c) Fold the strap back on itself (hiding the raw end) and stitch it to the mat using an X shape.

All finished! Go and get your yoga (or reading, or story, or snack) on!

I hope your favorite little person likes their new mat! You can share your projects on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtag #alongforthreadride, or post them on the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page. And, of course, if you have any questions please be sure to contact me on any of the above or email sherri@threadridinghood.com. I’d love to hear from you! (And, as usual – this tutorial is for personal use only! Thanks.)

Made by Me Monday – Easy Drawstring Bag {tutorial}

by | Feb 11, 2014

Yet another Valentine’s project? Maybe… or maybe not?! You could also use this easy bag as a gift bag, or fancy it up and make your little lady a dress-up purse. I made this bag with Valentine’s in mind, but the idea came from my Halloween post in October when I promised to make a tutorial for these bags. It was part of my daughter’s Izzy costume.

I made this with the simplest construction in mind. Of course if you have some experience sewing, you can sort out how to add a lining, outside pocket – or something else I haven’t thought of yet! You could really have a lot of fun embellishing them – perfect for party favours even. (And thank goodness they are fast and simple to make!)

You will need:

  • 2 pieces quilting cotton outer fabric 9″ x 12″ (or your desired size)
  • 2 pieces contrasting fabric 1 1/2″ x width of your outer fabric (for the drawstring casing)
  • 1 piece contrasting cotton for applique
  • 1 piece Steam-A-Seam or similar fusible web (size of applique)
  • 2 pieces 1/4″-3/8″ wide ribbon for drawstrings – length: outer fabric width x 2 + 8″ each
  • scissors, pins, glue stick, water soluble fabric pen, normal sewing gear

Here we go:

Step 1: (a) Fold the right side edges of your contrasting casing fabric into the center and iron them. Do this with both pieces. (b) Fold each end of your casing fabric in 1/2″ to the wrong side. Pin or use a glue stick to hold the ends down. Set casings aside.

Step 2: (a) Fold both outer fabric pieces in half wrong sides together so the side edges are touching. Use a round object to trace a rounded corner onto your fabric. (b) Cut along your rounded line with all pieces folded together. This will make sure they are all the same when you are finished.

Step 3: (a) Turn and iron the top edges of your outer fabric pieces down 1/4″ and then 1/4″ again. (b) Stitch across the bottom edge of the folded fabric to hem the top of your bag.

Step 4: (a) Measure 1 1/2″ down from the top edge of each outer piece of fabric and pin your casings in place. Make sure they are centered side-to-side. (b) Stitch close to each casing edge. Do not stitch over the ends!

Step 5: (a) Cut out your applique shape with fusible web on the back and iron your applique on the front outer fabric. (b) Use a small zig-zag to stitch around the edge of your applique.

Step 6: (a) Place the two outer pieces of fabric right sides together and pin. (b) Stitch around the un-hemmed edges (sides and bottom) with a 1/4″ seam. (c) Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears or zig-zag stitch the seam allowance to neaten the edges.

Step 7: (a) Turn the bag right side out. Thread one ribbon through the front casing, then around the bag and through the back casing. I like to use a safety pin to do this more easily. (b) Tie your ends in a knot. (c) Thread the second ribbon through the front and then back casing, but this time make sure to start on the side without the ends from the first ribbon. (d) Tie these new ends in a knot. When you pull on the ribbons the drawstrings will close the top of the bag. If they don’t, check the photos and try re-threading the ribbons through your casings.

Finished! Fill ‘er up with yummy treats, a nice gift, or some spare change for your little lady’s new purse.

As always, I’d love to see your handiwork! You can share your projects on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtag #alongforthreadride, or post them on the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page. And, of course, if you have any questions please be sure to contact me on any of the above or email sherri@threadridinghood.com. I’d love to hear from you! (And, as usual – this tutorial is for personal use only! Thanks.)

Super Simple Bunting Tee {a tutorial}

by | Feb 8, 2014

I’ve had these shirts in my head for a while and so I thought I would share a rare Saturday tutorial with you so you have time to make it before Valentine’s if you want! (If you are looking for Sewing Survey Saturday we’ll be back again next week with last week’s results.) I wanted these to be wearable year round, but still have a little bit of a Heart Day vibe. Of course, who can resist the bunting, and it was a lot of fun finding fun fabric scraps to fussy cut. I love that the twill ribbon creates a “faux yoke” on the shirt front.

Thankfully the tees came out like I’d hoped and they are really quick to make. I think I spent about 1/2 hour on each shirt.  My oldest even pronounced it the best shirt I have ever made for her. Even though I only appliqued a store-bought one. A little effort on my part = a happy daughter. It’s a win, win situation! And, if you wanted, this would look super-cute on a baby bib or a onesie too – a quick shower gift maybe?

Of all of the things to be proud of I think I am most happy that I actually used my cross-stitching skills from 15 (or more) years ago! I had to remember how to separate the embroidery floss to put some hand-stitching around the appliqued heart. I love how it looks. It’s those little touches that make the piece special. Please tell me you are proud to have a secret past with cross-stitching in it too!?

 

Wanna make one?

You will need:

  • store bought (or homemade) shirt
  • twill/ribbon the width of the shirt + 10″ for the bow
  • 3 fabric scraps for the bunting (roughly 3″x3″ each)
  • 1 fabric scrap for the tiny heart (roughly 1.5″x1.5″ each)
  • Steam-A-Seam or other fusible web product
  • school glue stick
  • ballpoint needle for your sewing machine
  • Hand embroidery needle
  • Embroidery floss to compliment/contrast the heart
  • iron, sewing machine, scissors, pins

Here we go:

Step 1: Find some super-cute fabric and fussy cut it out to make the triangles. My triangles are 2 1/2″ on each side and 2″ across the top. Free-hand cut a heart. It helps to fold your fabric in half and cut half a heart, so each side is the same when you unfold it. My heart is just over 1″ x 1″.

Step 2: Cut your fusible web to match the triangle shapes and heart shape. Use the extra 10″ of ribbon (you likely won’t need all of it) to make a bow. Lay everything out the way you want on the shirt front with the fusible web underneath the triangles and heart.  The twill ribbon along the top of the triangles should overhang the sleeve seams by 1/2″ on each side. Make sure everything looks the way you’d like it to when you are finished. TIP: My bunting is off to the left – not centred on the shirt. It looks a bit more artistic, and the bow visually centres it when you are finished.

Step 3: Remove the ribbon and bow. Iron the triangles and heart onto your shirt as per your fusible web directions. I used a press cloth to avoid getting stray glue on my iron.

Step 4: Use a small zig-zag to stitch around your bunting triangles. Don’t stitch the heart, we will do that later.

Step 5: (a) Use a glue stick to fold the edges of your long twill ribbon 1/2 under on each end. Pin/Glue the ribbon onto your shirt, making sure the ends meet up with the edges of the sleeve seams. (b) Stitch around the twill ribbon. I used a straight stitch and sewed as close to all 4 edges (sides and ends) as I could.

Step 6: Separate out 3 strands of embroidery floss and run some small hand-stitches around the heart. Begin and end at the back of the shirt and tie them together with a triple-knot when you are done.

Step 7: Use a bar-tack or a straight stitch on both sides of the centre of your bow to secure it to the shirt and ensure it does not come untied.

All finished – Send it over to a tiny fashion-ista or give it to your little Valentine.

As always, I’d love to see your handiwork! You can share your projects on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtag #alongforthreadride, or post them on the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page. And, of course, if you have any questions please be sure to contact me on all of the above or email sherri@threadridinghood.com. I’d love to hear from you!

Made by Me Monday – Spoonflower Tea Towels {a mini tutorial}

by | Jan 13, 2014

I’m posting a project that I’ve been working on since November! My monthly sewing group (the Material Girls) decided to join me in making tea towels with our kids’ artwork on them. We all used them as Christmas gifts for aunts and grandmothers – and of course I kept a set for me! I think I saw this idea a few years ago – when Spoonflower was just a baby – oh how fast they have grown up! I’ve been meaning to try it, but never remembered until the last minute. If you haven’t heard of Spoonflower you can learn more in my DIY Canvas Art tutorial post.

Working with Spoonflower is pretty simple. You scan in your drawing, colour-correct it, re-size it and upload it to your Spoonflower Studio. There are lots of tutorials on how to do this, so I’m not going to go into all the details here. And that is why I have named this a “mini” tutorial and not a full one! When you are printing these, get them made in linen-cotton canvas. When you recieve them they will be a bit stiff. But I used this to my advantage when hemming them and then washed them up. They are much softer and I am assured that they will become nicer with each wash.

I thought it would be helpful to include the template for sizing (below) that I used when I was working everything out. 1 yard of linen-cotton canvas is 54″ wide (selvage to selvage) and 36″ high. This will fit 4 good sized tea towels – as you can see below. Each tea towel is 27″ x 18″ un-hemmed. I put a 3/4″ border on each of my tea towels (like Emma has done here) so it is easy to cut the tea towels apart and also easy to hem them, because you have the line already there. If you want to add the border, reference the smaller size, and make your visible area 25.5″ x 16.5″. When the tea towel front is designed you can add the coloured border to make the final tea towel 27″ x 18″. The other nice thing about Spoonflower is that you can order only one fat quarter tea towel or multiple yards with 4 towels on each.

Christmas tea towel gifts are great – but what about Valentines’ gifts, Birthdays, Anniversaries… and having the kids involved makes it a lot of fun. They were so proud that their artwork was important enough to be printed and given to everyone! I am not sure my tea towels will ever dry a dish. I am far too sentimental and don’t want them to get ruined. Though, if they do get stained (because I think the kids would love for me to use them), I can always order more!