Happy Monday to you! After the 4 Cargo Duffles from last Monday and the Handbag last Wednesday + the book giveaway (open until Monday Jan 19th at midnight!) Seems it is a good idea to follow up last week’s inadvertent “bag week” with the Cargo Duffle Zipper Pocket tutorial I promised. Plus it seems like a good time to let you know who won the last giveaway!
This pocket was created out of a need for something quick and secure. While making four of these duffles I figured it would just take too long to make the folded and stitched and lined cargo pockets the original pattern calls for. I also am not very good at attaching snaps – so avoiding that seemed best as well!
This pocket is created to work well on any bag that has a separate bottom base. The separate base covers the bottom raw edge of the pocket. All of the other raw and zipper edges are finished. The front of the pocket is lined and the ‘back” of the pocket is the bag’s front outer fabric. You could fold the bottom raw edges of the pocket under before stitching and use it on any other type of bag as well.
Before I get too far, I want to let you know who won the Sew Sister’s Quilt Shop giveaway from last week. The fortunate winner is Beth T. She’s going to get 10 fat quarters of Tim Holtz Eclectic Elements in the mail soon! Thanks so much to Sew Sister’s for the giveaway and of course congratulations to Beth! What a nice surprise!
On to the tutorial!
You will need:
- One 12″ zipper
- One 13″ piece of 1/2″ double fold bias tape
- Outer Pocket: One 13″ x 6.5″ piece of quilting/cotton or similar
- Lining: One 13″ x 6.5″ piece of quilting/cotton or similar
Here we go:
- Place the outer fabric right side up. Open the zipper and align it along the top (long) edge of the outer edge with the zipper slider down. Pin/Glue in place. Baste if desired.
- Align the lining fabric right sides together along the top edge of the outer and zipper tape. Pin/Glue in place.
- Stitch along the top edge, through the lining/zipper/outer with a 1/4″ seam allowance. I used my regular machine foot and moved the needle as far as it can go to the left so as to avoid changing to my zipper foot!
- Once sewn, open up the lining and outer so they are wrong sides together. Press the edges next to the zipper tape.
- Sandwich the unfinished side of the zipper tape inside of the bias tape. Make sure it is at least 1/8″ away from the zipper teeth on both sides. I use glue to keep it in place before sewing. You can also use pins.(There is no need to finish the ends of the bias tape.)
- Stitch the bias tape close to the bottom edge.
- Fold the bias tape to the lining side on the open end and pin the zipper along the top edge so the teeth stay aligned in the next step.
- Fold the outer and lining right sides together and pin along the short edge.
- Stitch the pinned short edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Be careful when stitching over the zipper teeth. Back-stitch well at the corner. Trim the corner to reduce bulk.
- Close the zipper at least half way. Fold the zipper in half wrong sides together and pin the end to keep the teeth aligned in the next step.
- Fold the outer and lining right sides together and pin along the short edge. The zipper teeth should be facing the outer pocket fabric.
- Stitch the pinned short edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Be careful when stitching over the zipper teeth. Back-stitch well at the corner. Trim the corner and zipper tape to reduce bulk.
- Turn the zipper and pocket right sides out and push out the corners.
- Mark the placement of the Cargo Duffle exterior bottom accent piece. Align the zipper pocket in the centre of the Front so the bottom edge will be 1/2″ under the exterior bottom accent piece once sewn.
- Open the zipper and pin the bias tape in place.
- Unpin the pocket outer and flip it up to access the bias tape. Pin it in place at the far right side (pin is circled), being careful to keep the bias tape straight. I used my quilting lines as a guide.
- Fold the Front over so the pocket bias tape lays flat more easily and pin the opposite end in place.
- Stitch the bias tape along the top edge, next to the previous line of stitching. Folding the Front of the Cargo Duffle as you sew so the bias tape and pocket lay flat while you are stitching.
- Re-align and pin the pocket in place. Stitch the short sides of the pocket up from the bottom to about 1″ under the zipper. I stitched across and back down as well to secure the pocket better.
And you’re finished! Stitch on the Exterior Bottom Accent and continue with the original Cargo Duffle instructions to finish your amazing bag.