by Sherri Sylvester | Jan 27, 2016
I am so, so happy to be a guest on Indiesew again today. This time as part of Coat Month! This post allowed me to move the Marmalade Jacket straight to the top of my to-do list. Plus I got to work with some amazing stretch faux leather, a new-to-me fabric I’ve been wanting to try.
Find out more on the Indiesew blog! (+ why I should not have chosen this as my first coat in faux leather!)
To say I am pleased with how this coat turned out is a big understatement. I’m deliriously pleased with how “un-handmade” this jacket looks. Every time I see it hanging in my closet I smile crazily to myself. That’s not weird, right?!
Have you made a coat or worked with faux leather before? What are your best tips? We’re listening!
(P.S. Don’t forget – only one more day to sign up for the Fabric Please Giveaway! Enter for your chance to win until midnigh January 28, 2016)
by Sherri Sylvester | Dec 2, 2015
I’m really happy to get to talk about Petit Oiseau, a Filles à Maman pattern today. The last time I worked with one of Mélanie’s patterns I made 5 of them! This time, since I am still recovering from having pneumonia I barely made the deadline. Thankfully I’m much better now – tired, but so relieved to feel almost normal!
Be sure you check out the huge pattern giveaway and discount below! {Disclaimer: I received this pattern as part of this blog tour. All opinions are always my own. Thanks for reading.}
I was excited to work with the shape of the Petit Oiseau shirt. It has a great, easy to sew in flounce/ruffle across the front. It’s pretty fun, the ruffle pattern piece is a spiral and when you extend it it frills perfectly without any gathers. I also love that it is a dolman style sleeve, no extra sleeve to cut and set in! It was a good opportunity to use one fabric on the back and another on the front. I’d love to try another one without the ruffle, since the seam across the front allows another fabric to be set in at the top of the shirt as well.
I also decided to add hem bands to the sleeves and the hem because I wanted to repeat the floral fabric again. I made a size 6 and lengthened the hem to a size 8. Turns out the shirt runs long, which I love! So now it is a really great length for wearing with leggings. Perfect for a cozy winter outfit. I also took in a bit under the dolman arm – my daughter tends to be pretty tiny through the body of shirts, so it equates to me making a size 4 through the chest. I tried it on my youngest and it fits her much better (though it’s way too long because she is a size 4/5 in height). Since the younger one is actually a size 6 around, the shirt sizing does run true to the measurements.
My oldest isn’t sure if she loves the gray with the purple floral. She thinks the orange, pink and purple don’t match – personal preference perhaps? And here I thought I had a winner! Either way, she wore it to school yesterday – so it can’t be that bad. Either she changed her mind, or she wore it because I’m behind on laundry since getting sick!
SUMMARY
- Sizing: This shirt is true to size through the body, and runs long in the sleeves and length. The pattern comes in sizes 12m-14, with short and long sleeves!
- Ease of Construction: The dolman sleeves make this a quick, easy sew.
- Instructions: The illustrated directions are great. I didn’t have issues with anything.
- Machine: I sewed most the seams on my regular machine and finished the edges with my serger. I only used the to sew the neck, arm and hem bands because they need a lot of stretch. You definitely don’t need a serger to make this shirt, though.
- Fun Factor: Playing with the ruffle and colour blocking makes for a unique shirt!
One lucky winner will win this amazing 21 pattern collection! Enter through the Rafflecopter widget below.
Jennuine designs (1 pattern of choice)- Petit à Petit Patterns (1 pattern of choice)- Paisley Roots (Safron dress and All spice patterns)- Jalie (1 pattern of choice)- Sofilantjes (1 pattern of choice)- Call Ajaire (1 pattern of choice)- Knot Sew Normal (1 pattern of choice)- Momma Quail Patterns (1 pattern of choice)- Duck Butt Designs (1 pattern of choice)- The Wolf and the Tree (1 pattern of choice)- Laela Jeyne Patterns (1 pattern of choice)- Kelly J Patterns (1 pattern of choice)- Golden Rippy (1 pattern of choice)- Dandelions ‘n’ Dungarees (1 pattern of choice)- FABulous Home sewn (1 pattern of choice)- Bishy Barnababes -(1 pattern of choice) Filles à Maman (3 patterns of choice). a Rafflecopter giveaway
The Petit Oiseau pattern is on sale all this week! Get it for just $6 (USD), no coupon code needed. Sale start Monday 30th and ends Friday Dec. 5th at midnight EDT.
Check out the rest of the tour!
Monday, November 30th: Call Ajaire – Needle and Ted – Paisley Roots – House of Estrela
Tuesday December 1st: Coffee and Thread – Max California – Sew Thrifty – Conversas de Hermanas
Wednesday December 2nd: Just Add Fabric – Sprouting JubeJube – Thread Riding Hood – From a Box
Thursday December 3rd: Rebel and Malice – Sew Shelly Sew – Create 3.5 – Made by Sara
Friday December 4th: A Jennuine Life – Lulu & Celeste – Sew Out of Control –Petit à Petit and Family
Thank you for reading the whole post! Join me on social media, come along for “thread ride” and don’t miss a post!
by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 25, 2015
#citronillechallenge Courtesy of: Sew Mama Sew and Fiddlehead Artisan Supply
This coat was such an amazing experience to sew. A few weeks ago, my husband took our kids to a friend’s cottage for the entire weekend – lucky me! – and I was able to luxuriously putter my way through making this jacket. It was calming to hand-stitch the hems and the back of the collar, tea at hand! Listening to the quiet… or whatever podcast seemed good at the time… Back to real life… I finally finished the buttonholes yesterday, of course!
This jacket is part of the Citronille Pattern Challenge sponsored by Sew Mama Sew and Fiddlehead Artisan Supply. I received the women’s Jackie pattern for this challenge and the children’s Solveig pattern to use as I’d like (Yippee!). Citronille Patterns are designed by Astrid Le Provost who has made a gorgeous line of clothing patterns for Women, Teens and Children. Astrid is based in France, and as a result, most of the patterns have been available only in French, until now! Fiddlehead Artisan Supply has had many of them translated and is now providing them for sale.
(Whew, I have a lot to say about this pattern! If you’d like the review summary, you can find it at the end of the post!)
The original paper pattern (in French) comes with a translation of the instructions and a key for the pattern pieces and glossary words you may use. I have to admit, it took me a few minutes to sort out how to best use the translation and original text together. I found it helped to trace the pattern pieces in the correct sizes first, and write pattern notations on the traced pieces in English. That got me used to using the translation key and it was simple after that! Plus, as a bonus, working in French makes you feel amazing – very chic and whatever I imagine “European” feels like!
The Real Story (or: In the beginning…)
This all sounds peaceful and amazing I’m sure – but it didn’t start that way! When I received the pattern I mentally started to regret saying I would make the women’s jacket. I was afraid to mess it up, not sure of the fabric choices, not super-loving the design (based on the pattern cover drawing). I started coming up with ways to change the style, since I didn’t want to “waste time” making a garment I would never wear. To be honest, I even emailed Kristin at Sew Mama Sew to ask if I could lengthen the coat and add a tie. To which she said “Yes”, though I didn’t end up needing to do this in the end.
Of course, since I said I’d make it, I decided to make the best of it. First I measured the length of the jacket and found it to be longer than I pictured. Then I saw there were back darts and elbow darts – clues to a well designed pattern. I decided to wing it and just make the jacket as is. No major changes! (Changes are noted in the summary below.) In the end I’m so pleased with how it turned out. Seems it was not good to judge the pattern on it’s cover!
How It Sews
Since I had time I concentrated on following the instructions slowly and thoughtfully. My garment sewing practice is finally paying off! The hard-earned knowledge (read: so many things I can’t/don’t wear, multiples of muslins and used-up practice fabric) paired with the careful lines of the pattern, working together at last! I was so excited when I graded the pattern – everywhere between sizes 38 (bust) to 40 (arms, waist) to 44 (shoulders and hips) – and the “muslin” fit great! Crazy, but most patterns require that much change for my body type.
This pattern requires at least an intermediate knowledge of garment sewing – ie. The instructions are clearer if you are familiar with garment sewing. There are no directions for finishing seams or tips included, like we’ve been spoiled with from the many indie pattern makers. That said, they are amazing base patterns – they have simple lines that can be used as-is or altered by an experienced sewer to create many different styles. I love this and would like to make the Jackie again, only with lots of top stitching and patch pockets, and maybe a zipper instead of buttons.
Simplifying the Pattern
I mentioned that I hand stitched a lot on this pattern. I was determined to make it “as per the instructions” and it requires the collar and hems to be stitched by hand. In the future I think I would use top-stitching in many places to make the construction faster. It also helps the mark the seam allowance on the collar to avoid guessing where the corner is when sewing. Lastly, I (finally) figured out how to ease in a sleeve properly! Quick tip, when sewing the sleeve seam, put the larger side of the sleeve so it is touching the feed dogs – this side will feed through slightly faster and ease in the excess fabric better!
The Fabric
I bought “boring and simple” navy twill for this pattern, so I had to add a bit of fun! The owl print that I’ve been hoarding for a few years was the perfect match. Plus I used some scraps of Rashida Print bias tape, leftovers from my Alder skirt, since no one but you will see it anyhow! One other thing that was added is the twill ruler-print ribbon under the collar seam, it’s my favorite!
Outer Fabric: Navy Blue Twill (from Fabricland), Facing: Japanese Owl print (from Sew Sisters 2 yrs ago)
Here are a few things I love about it:
- The fit! The fit! I have just enough room in this jacket to fit a long sleeve sweater/blouse underneath (if needed) and still move comfortably. This jacket is my “wearable muslin” and it turned out great!
- The collar was so easy to construct. This was one thing I was worried about before starting.
- The french “feel”, so chic! The hand drawn pattern pieces and scripty handwriting add to the fun of creating the garment.
- It’s a great length for layering. In these photos I’ve matched it with my Loominous Bess Top.
The fit & my alterations:
- The front facing lies right over the bust line and the bias binding ends up showing through the thin twill when I wear the jacket. I’d increase the width of the facing by about 1 1/2″ to avoid this in the future.
- I might add 1 or 2 more inches to the hem. This will require adding back darts or a pleat or slit on the center back to allow it to fit properly.
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Things I changed from the original pattern:
- Grading between sizes for a better fit to my body shape.
- An extra button and buttonhole at the bottom of the jacket. There are only five buttons in the original pattern.
Things I might change next time:
- More exciting fabric! This twill is plain and boring… would be nice to find a fun plaid or fun floral.
- I already mentioned adding a front zipper. I think a metal one would look amazing.
- I’d love to try adding ribbing to the bottom, sleeve hems and in place of the collar – more bomber jacket style.
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You can hop over to Sew Mama Sew for a chance to win a Citronille pattern of your choice between September 28 and October 8! I’m in such good company on this challenge, please check out the projects created by the other challengers:
Michelle Morris of That Black Chic
Sherri Sylvester of thread riding hood
Tenille Brien of Tenille’s Thread
Maris Olsen of Sew Maris
Ari Green of Max California
Marisa of thirtynine
Sara Johansen of the Sara project
Natalie Strand of Vegetablog
Diane Reafsnyder of Gator Bunny
Jessica Wright of Willow & Stitch
Sara Homer of Now Try This
Kelly Donovan of Craftree
by Sherri Sylvester | Jun 18, 2015
I’m feeling especially patriotic today. It’s my turn to post on the Canadian Pattern Designer blog tour. I am super proud to be Canadian and connected with this group of designers. This tour is an amazing showcase of great patterns! (Discount below + lots of prizes to be won! Keep reading!)
Ula from Lulu and Celeste has organized a great bunch of bloggers over the past few months and each of us gets to showcase a different pattern from our selected Canadian Designer. I was so fortunate to get to play with Victory Patterns! Kristiann Boos is well known for her patterns and I was dying to make an Ava. I seem to keep collecting dressy tops when I am part of these blog hops – maybe that’s a sign I need to get out more?!
My general impression of the Ava pattern was that it is SO professionally put together! I happened to have about 4 pattens that I was putting together at the same time a few months ago and this pattern stood out way over and above the others. The way it is written, down to how it prints out and the directions and ease of finding what you need. I really enjoyed working with it.
I made this peplum top in voile, which I have never worked with before. It was easy to sew, I didn’t have any issues with the fabric at all. To make the top more modest (read: not see through!), I cut two layers of each pattern piece and then sewed everything pretending they were one piece. It worked really well, aside from the peplum skirt having a bit more body than I would like. It stands out from the top quite a bit and I could likely have only used one layer there.
Oh my goodness, can I say how proud I am? I survived attaching binding smoothly for the first time ever! Binding and me have a long standing mutual hate for each other, I was super afraid when I saw the neckline and sleeves were binding bound on this top. My tip is to go slow, really slow – and pin, a lot!
The neckline did give me a bit of trouble, but I found an amazing post on how to sew it on the DIY Fox. Her post about sewing the Ava Sweetheart Neckline was really helpful. I was nervous because quite a few bloggers were saying the two sides of the neckline weren’t even when they stitched it. Again – slow and steady wins the race. Mine isn’t perfect, but I only know that because I made it!
Just to add a bit to the list, the bust darts finish too high. It’s my own fault – I made them a bit wider to take in more fabric (a la small bust adjustment) and shouldn’t have added to the height. Argh. I could take them out and fix them – but I was on vacation while I was sewing it… so they stayed put, mostly because it still fit and didn’t show that much.
PATTERN REVIEW SUMMARY: Ava, by Victory Patterns, Version 3
Fabric: Black Madonna Voile, unknown “French Chic” lining fabric (both from Fabricland)
Here are a few things I love about it:
- Lots of proper notches and markings! This is a super professional pattern.
- Cutting layouts and required fabric listing is super clear for all 3 versions.
- The neckline! It’s so cute.
- The sheer (or not) upper bodice. I’ve seen amazing versions with regular woven material in the top, as well as lace – so many options!
The fit & my alterations:
- This pattern fits SO easily! This pattern fit the best (on my first muslin) out of any of the patterns I’ve made in the last few months.
- To make it fit my non-average measurements I:
- took in a bit on the sides and widen the dart. (Basically a small bust adjustment)
- extended the shoulder up to a size 10, graded back to a size 4 at the top of the bodice and graded to a size 8 at the bottom and through the peplum skirt
- Since I am long-waisted, I added 1″ to the length of the bodice.
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Things I changed from the original pattern:
- Nothing save alterations to the fit.
Things I might change next time:
- I really, really want to make one of these out of knit instead of woven – since I wear knits almost every day.
- I’d love to try the sleeveless version as well.
- I would not use a double-layer of voile in the peplum skirt, it gives it extra body which isn’t as flattering.
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There are SO MANY prizes to be won along this blog hop! Enter for your chance to win a Victory Pattern below. Find out how to win the Grand Prize here!
a Rafflecopter giveaway
Victory Patterns is offering 15% off anything on their website using the discount code “CANADATOUR” from June 17 – 23, 2015. Thank you Kristiann!
Follow the Canadian Pattern Designer blog hop below. Link over to so much great Canadian information!
June 1 – 3 Gracious Threads – Interview : Creative Bug – The Wholesome Mama – stitched by crystal
June 4 – 6 Jalie – Interview: Shaffer Sisters – Call Ajaire – hibbadoray
June 8 – 10 Thread Theory – Interview: Handmade Boy – Rebel & Malice – Sew Out of Control
June 11 – 13 Audrey & Tiffany – Interview: All Things Katy! – Not Sew Fast – Conversas de Hermana
June 15 – 17 E+M Patterns – Interview: From-a-Box – Made by Sara – Climbing the Willow
June 17 – 19 Victory Patterns – Interview: Swoodson Says – Thread Riding Hood (that’s me!) – Sprouting JubeJube
June 18 – 20 FABulous Home Sewn – Interview: Create3.5 – Calm and Carrion – Stitches by Laura
June 22 – 24 Filles a Maman – Interview: Pattern Revolution – PhatQuarters – sewstarly – House of Estrela
June 24 – 26 Closet Case Files – Interview: gloria june – Rebel & Malice – Sew Far North
June 25 – 27 Elegance & Elephants – Interview: Sprouting JubeJube – AmandaRose – Mae & K
June 29 – 30 Lulu & Celeste: new makes and a round up post
July 1st Last day to enter Giveaways and Final Round up Post!
Reader Feedback: Have you made any of the Victory Patterns? How did you like it?
Thanks for reading. Follow along and join me for “thread ride”!
And what is a good post without a tiny photo bomber and her “new rock”?!
Disclaimer: I received the Ava pattern from Victory Patterns in return for this post. My opinions are always my own and I do not promote things I don’t love. Thanks for reading!
by Sherri Sylvester | Jun 8, 2015
Inspiration from a 80’s rock band anyone?! This top is a first “wearable” muslin of the Vernazza Color-Block Top. It’s not perfect, but I like the front panel and colour-blocking so I decided to take photos anyhow! This pattern is from the book: Just for You, that I recieved as part of my Sewlebrity Sewalong post in January. I have finally gotten around to making another project from it, and finished just in time to be part of May’s Sewalong.
Since it was Made be Me May last month, I was looking for another top to sew for myself so I could round out the photos I was taking. It so happened that I read a post on Sew Can She’s blog and remembered that I could make this top. I had also just picked up a knit panel at the fabric store and was trying to find somewhere to use it.
Thoughts on the pattern:
- It’s well laid out and written.
- The photo instructions are very clear.
- Includes tips to make your top look less handmade. (Which I failed to do because my knit hemming/top stitching skills need lots of practice!)
Here are a few things I love about it:
- It’s really well thought out and explained pattern.
- Comes in sizes XS-XL.
- Uses proper techniques to finish seams etc.
- The style of the top is different, I don’t know of many other top patterns that have side panels.
Thoughts on the fit:
- LOVE that it fits pretty well. Especially on the front. The back is a bit large, but that could be because I altered the pattern quite a bit (see below).
- I find that I generally should have made one size down from whatever I think I need on most patterns. Not sure if I am bad at measuring myself or if I tend to like a more fitted finished product.
Things I changed from the original pattern:
- I removed the color blocking from the back to save a bit of time when sewing it. This probably altered the fit quite a bit since I had to curve the pieces a bit to fit them together properly.
Things I might change next time:
- Use a more structured knit. This one was so thin it was hard to hem – as seen in the photos!
- Use hem bands to omit the hemming all together and see how it looks.
- If the hem bands don’t work I’m going to make the sleeves a bit smaller around.
- Try one or two sizes down, or make alterations – this was a first muslin after all!
Reader Feedback: Do you have a favorite sewing book? What project from it do you like the most?
P.S. Hmmm… I wonder what we are doing on our vacation today?! Come over and find out!
Thanks for reading! Follow along to get more great tutorials and posts:
by Sherri Sylvester | May 28, 2015
So, you’re window shopping on a summer Saturday – or you’re headed to a sparkly roof-top party downtown? No problem, the Indiesew Summer Collection has you covered. (Crazy hair colour not included!)
This year I have been lots more successful in making more of my own clothes. I’m starting to sort out what fits and how to make it fit if it doesn’t. It’s a great feeling to actually be able to participate in #memademay15 – and not just watch everyone else doing it! Today I get to show you how I expanded my handmade wardrobe as part of the Indiesew Summer Collection Blog Tour. (and I am not just a little giddy that I am in a tour with all these talented bloggers!)
Indiesew has been creating seasonal collections for about a year now. I’m a huge supporter of bloggers, indie sewing patterns and online fabric shops (especially in Canada!). I love that the sewing community has grown up so much in the past few years.
Indiesew’s mission is to bring everyone together. They have amassed a large collection of the best indie patterns and you can purchase them, upload your photos and view others’ creations – loads of inspiration. Plus, sewing tips and tutorials on their blog. Their branding makes my designer’s heart super happy! (Yikes, didn’t mean to go on a long speech there – I really love the back story to their site!)
Speaking of supporting Canadian online fabric shops, I found the small-scale check shot cotton for my Ella Top at Flare Fabrics during Creativ Festival. I had been hoping to use a gray check or plaid and was happy to find it so easily!
It’s my attempt at a summery nod to the lumberjack shirt trend, and it’s super soft. Though it doesn’t have much drape, I was hoping for a bit of a boxy, long “crop tee” look anyhow. They also have an amazing oversized check and so many colours. Shot cotton, rayon challis and chambray are my new favorites for clothing!
PATTERN REVIEW: Ella Top, by Liola Patterns
Fabric: Gravel Peppered Check Shot Cotton (Flare Fabrics)
This top is the perfect summer project. It’s beginner friendly and uses just over a yard of fabric. (Less if you shorten it!) I want to make more and live in them all summer.
Here are a few things I love about it:
- The back yoke detail is fun to play with. You could use lace, bias or fussy-cut fabric!
- The pattern only has 15 pages to assemble! Hooray!
- It is fully constructed with french seams so there are no raw edges and no edge finishing to do.
- Well written, illustrated instructions.
Thoughts on the fit & my alterations:
- The fit is true to the given measurements.
- I adjusted the sides of the top to fit size small at the top down to medium at the bottom.
- I also did a small bust adjustment and sway back adjustment like I usually do on #memade tops. (Don’t be scared, they are not hard and let you customize the fit to your body.)
- Raised the neckline by 1″.
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Things I changed from the original pattern:
- I love the length of the original pattern – but it looked a bit long with the not-so-drapey fabric so I shortened it by almost 5″.
- I used my favorite imagine gnats trick – using a knit instead of a woven to bind the edges, soooo much easier. Bias tape and I don’t play well together!
Things I might change next time:
- Use a flowy fabric. I’d love to see one in rayon challis – the shot cotton is amazing, but does not drape really well.
- Make on in the original length or longer, or make it into a tank dress.
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Fabric: Black Rayon Challis (Canadian Fabricland, no link)
Since I am not so much a trendy fashion follower on my own – I love having the Indiesew collections to help me out. I don’t think I ever would have made myself proper harem pants without a little push – and now I want them in every colour. (And floral… and ikat print!)
Here are a few things I love about it:
- The MOST options ever. You can make these pants 9 different ways. If you mix and match the options are almost endless!
- Well written and organized pdf instructions with clear photos.
- Comfy, comfy, comfy!
Thoughts on the fit & my alterations:
- The first pair I made were really baggy. I sized down 1 size for these even though the hip measurement is smaller than my measurement. I’m much happier with a more fitted pant.
- The only alteration I made was to lower the front rise by 1″. They already sit low on your waist (love that!) and now they fit me perfectly.
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Things I changed from the original pattern:
- Nothing! Aside from my alterations to the fit.
Things I might change next time:
- I’d love to try a pair in a knit fabric with contrasting hem and waist bands.
- Also, maybe shorten them to 3/4 length.
- I would love to re-visit these in the fall with a bit heavier fabric (maybe take in some excess from the elastic waist) and hem them using the lounge pant option.
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Visit the links below for more Summer Collection inspiration:
Tuesday, May 19th: Rachel | House of Pinheiro
Thursday, May 21st: Katie | What Katie Sews
Monday, May 25th: Anna | Noodlehead
Tuesday, May 26th: Andrea | Knitty Bittes
Wednesday, May 27th: Erin | Sewbon
Thursday, May 28th: Sherri | Thread Riding Hood (Hi, That’s me!)
Reader Feedback: What is your go-to clothing pattern to make for this summer?
Thanks for reading. Follow along and join me for “thread ride”!
Disclaimer: Indiesew provided the patterns used in this post free of charge as part of this blog tour. Flare Fabrics also provided a discount on their fabric in return for a mention in this post. As usual, thanks so much for reading! All opinions are always my own.
