Thread Riding Hood

Simple Fat Quarter Skirt {a tutorial}

by | Apr 8, 2014

I have way too many fat quarters and I don’t quilt (yet!).  I have seen many tutorials for fat quarter skirts, but I hadn’t really found one I was happy with. I love that you can use one fat quarter to make a simple skirt for a very small child, but as they get older the skirt may fit, but it ends up too short. I worked this tutorial out a few weeks ago.  I was teaching my friend’s daughter a bit about her new sewing machine and seeing me teach someone else to sew was enough for my daughter to want to make something herself. The simple two fat quarter skirt was born! It is very easy to sew, so as long as you can stitch a straight line you’ll be fine. This was a good project to do with my daughter (she’s six), though she got a bit tired of finishing all of the seams properly!

Today also has the advantage of being the second day of Kids Clothes Week (sew 1 hour a day for your kids each day this week) and I’m fully ready and on board! I’ve even got my patterns printed and some of the fabric cut.

Though I finished these fat quarter skirts on Sunday I think I will post them on the KCW blog anyhow, I also need to stitch up some knit skirts that have been waiting for over a month now, two Easter dresses (very important!) and I am hoping to finish a pair of jeans for my youngest who has been asking to “match Mommy” for quite some time.

I don’t think I’ll finish it all in 1 hour a week – so I’m trying to dedicate the whole week to the process instead. Of course there are normal other things going on… ha! Who am I kidding – I’ll likely be lucky to finish one or two of my ideas but hopefully I will surprise myself!

Want to make the skirts? I’ve included all of the steps you need below as a free tutorial. The fat quarter skirt has a great contrast band at the bottom, and an easy to sew separate casing. Use non-roll elastic for a more comfortable fit.

The Fat Quarter Skirt PDF Pattern is Now Available!

Purchasing this fully tested skirt pattern gives you access to 5 sizes, child’s 2-6, to create a skirt that is 9-11 1/2″ (23-30cm) long. Expect lots of tips and tricks throughout, a glossary of terms, recommended best practices and instructions geared towards an absolute beginner. This pattern is truly a quick sew – allow yourself just 1-3 hours to finish, including your fabric cutting time. It’s also a great stash-buster, requiring only 2 fat quarters and a length of elastic… things you probably already have in your stash! To find out more about the pattern, click here.

Purchase the Fat Quarter Skirt PDF Pattern – $8.50 CDN

Discount Code:

Thank you for your support!

Please email me if you have any questions, sherri@threadridinghood.com, and I’ll do my best to help you out. And of course, I’d love to see your creations! You can share your projects on Twitter and Instagram @sherrisylvester with the hashtags #fatquarterskirt #alongforthreadride or #threadridinghood, or post them on the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page. (As usual, this tutorial is for personal/charitable use only – thanks!)

To Sew this (check below for sizing information), you will need:
  • 2 fat quarters (18″x22″, pre-washed and ironed)
  • 3/4″ elastic (non-roll recommended, length 1″ longer than your child’s waist measurement)
  • matching thread
  • safety pin
  • measurements as per instructions below
  • your normal sewing supplies
Before you begin:
  • Measurements needed: 1) Your child’s waist measurement, 2) The desired length of the skirt – measure from the waist down to the desired length.
  • Will this skirt fit my child? This tutorial uses 2 fat quarters – 22″ wide by 18″ high (after they are pre-washed). Measure around your child’s waist and then their hips. If the separate measurements are both between 15″ and 27″ this tutorial should work to fit your child. If the hips are slightly larger you should be fine as well, the fullness and loose fit of the skirt allow for some extra room. Also check the desired length of the skirt – the longest you can make this (when working with two fat quarters) is about 11.5″.
  • My child is too small, what should I do? The main reason this may not fit is the width of the fabric. If your child is very small, and the width is more than triple their waist measurement, the fabric will become bulky in the casing area making it impossible to gather it small enough to fit your child. Instead of using the full width of the fat quarter, use a width that equals the waist measurement of your child. (ex. Waist = 18″, use two 18″ wide pieces of fabric as indicated when cutting)
  • My child is too large, what should I do? You will need to account for the extra fabric needed and ignore the cutting instructions. The main instructions will work fine once you have your pieces cut. Your main skirt should be as wide as your child’s waist measurement (use two pieces as indicated in the cutting directions). The contrast band can be any height you’d like, so: double the desired height and add 1/2″ for seam allowances. The width of the casing (which is always 2″ high) and contrast band are the same as the main skirt width.
Here we go – Cutting your fabric:
  1. Casing Height: The casing pieces will always be 2″ high so the 3/4″ elastic will fit through them. Cut two pieces from your contrast band/casing fat quarter that are 2″ high.
  2. Contrast Band: You now have a fat quarter that is approximately 14″ high by 22″ wide. You need to get two contrast bands from this piece. To calculate how high you would like the contrast band, double the desired height and add 1/2″ for seam allowances. Example: If the desired contrast band height is 3″ – double that to get 6″ and add 1/2″ for seam allowances. This gives you a contrast band height of 6 1/2″. You need two bands, so the total fabric height needed is 13″. This will fit within the 14″ of fabric you have left after cutting the casings. If it does not fit, choose a smaller contrast band height – when working with a fat quarter, the height of the contrast band fabric pieces cannot exceed 7″.  I cut my 6 year old’s contrast band at 5 1/2″ (for a 2 1/2″ desired height) and my almost 4 year old’s at 4 1/2″ (for a 2″ desired height). 
  3. Main Skirt: Find the desired length of your skirt (“Before you begin, Measurements needed” above) and subtract the desired contrast band height. Add 1/2″ to this height to account for seam allowances. You will need two main skirt pieces. Example: If the desired skirt length is 9″, and the contrast band height is 2″, the skirt length will need to be 7″. Add 1/2″ for seam allowances to get a main skirt height of 7 1/2″. You will need two main skirt pieces, so the total height needed is 15″. This will fit within the 18″ fat quarter height. If it does not fit, choose a shorter skirt length – when working with a fat quarter, the height of the main skirt cannot exceed 9″. I cut my 6 year old’s main skirt at 9″ and my almost 4 year old’s at 8″. 
Here we go – Sewing the skirt:
  1. Prepare the casing, main skirt & contrast band:(a) Place each matching fabric piece right sides together. Pin the short ends. (b) Stitch with a 1/4″ seam. (c) Finish the seam allowance with pinking shears or a zig-zag stitch. Press the seam open or to one side. You will now have 3 tubes of fabric. 
  2. Prepare the contrast band: Fold the tube sides in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together, matching raw edges. You will have a large tube with right sides showing on both sides, one folded edge and one raw edge.
  3. Add the contrast band hem: (a) Place the contrast band tube over the bottom of the main skirt matching the seams and raw edges. Pin. (b) Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Finish the edges with pinking shears or a zig-zag stitch. (c) Press the seam up towards the main skirt. Top-stitch along the bottom of the main skirt aprox. 1/8″ away from the edge of the contrast band.
  4. Add the casing: (a) Place the casing tube over the top of the main skirt matching the seams and raw edges. Pin. (b) Stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance. (c) Iron the casing up from the main skirt. Iron the raw edge of the casing under 1/4″ all around. (d) Fold the casing over at the seam line around the main skirt top edge. Press well. (e) Pin the bottom edge of the casing. Mark a 2″ opening along the casing bottom, I like to use 2 pins to indicate the ends of my opening. (f) Stitch around the bottom of the casing about 1/8″ away from the bottom edge. Begin and end on either side of your marked opening.
  5. Insert the Elastic: (a) Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic. Use the safety pin to thread the 3/4″ wide elastic through the casing. (b) Use a safety pin to secure the elastic and try it on your child if possible to check the size. Cut to size, leaving 1/2″ for seam allowances. (c) Overlap the ends of the elastic by 1/2″ and pin. Stitch over the overlapped area with a zig-zag stitch to secure. (d) Pin and stitch the casing opening closed.
  6. Finishing the Skirt: (a) Even out the elastic through the casing so the gathering is relatively equal. (b) Pin through the elastic and casing at each side seam. (c) Stitch from the top to the bottom of the casing along the seam line (stitch in the ditch). This will secure the elastic and help prevent it from rolling.

All done! I hope the little person who gets this skirt is super happy. They are great for twirling (just a hint!).

Sewing Survey Saturday #12

by | Apr 5, 2014

Last Survey’s Results:

Two weeks ago I wanted to know about your scissors. I am here to report that I am completely and totally jealous of the poll winners – those of you who own Ginghers – Lucky you! Second in the popularity lineup are rotary cutters, and the makes vary greatly from there. Turns out a lot of you who commented however, including someone who works at a large retail-chain, use Fiskars. Makes me feel not so bad to use them as well!

My conclusion to the dilemma “To buy or not to buy shears”? I think I have concluded “not” for now. But in the future, should a little extra funding come in I would definitely splurge for some Ginghers! (Note to any family members buying gifts in the future perhaps?! Hee, Hee.)

This Week’s Question:

This photo was taken last Friday night in my dining room when I was waiting for everyone to arrive for our monthly Sewcial. Today I am curious about how often you get together with others to sew. I started a group last year and we get together on the 4th Friday night of every month. It is very informal, and we bring whatever project we are working on and squeeze into my living/dining room area to sew. Mostly I find I don’t accomplish much because we are chatting so much!

What do you do? How often do you get together with others to sew? Is it just you and one other person, or are you part of a Guild, if so – which one? (Want your sewing project or blog featured on Sewing Survey Saturday? It’s easy! Find out how at the bottom of this post!)

[polldaddy poll=”7945490″]

How to get your Sewing Project or Blog featured on Sewing Survey Saturday: Send an email to sherri@threadridinghood.com that includes your sewing related multiple choice question, your name and where you live (if you’d like it included). Please send your question with 3 to 5 multiple choice answers. Also send your blog information including which post you’d like me to link up to if you are featured! If you do not blog I would love to post a photo of one of your recent projects, so please send it along with your question. (Note: I may also feature a photo from your blog post (if applicable), if you do not want a linked photo please let me know in your email.)

Fabric Spark – a Canadian Online Fabric Store {+ a giveaway!}

by | Apr 4, 2014

Welcome to an Online Fabric Store post with a giveaway today! I get to introduce you to the 7th Canadian Online Fabric Store in our series – Fabric Spark, located in Toronto, Ontario. Since I’ve been collecting online fabric shops on Pinterest, I’ve had quite a few contact me and ask to be added to the list. Daryl’s shop opened just recently and already she has an extensive and beautiful collection!

Daryl worked in advertising and marketing for 30 years before she sold her business and took a year to “live creatively” in 2013. The name of her store comes from a desire for every fabric she chooses to spark your imagination – to get you thinking about what you could create with it! I’ll let her tell you a bit more about her background…

“I’m from a large family of do-it-yourselfers. They’re all really creative and we are great cheerleaders for each other’s work. We do a few group projects too. Last year we were dying fabric at the cottage and all of us had purple hands for a few days.

I’ve been sewing since Miss Fair taught me how to straighten the grain in Grade 7. I’m sure she didn’t predict that I would stick with it, but I’ve always loved fabric and have an embarrassingly large personal stash. I buy fabric when I travel and people buy me fabric as gifts. I’m especially fond of Indian textiles, I have a few saris that I treasure.”

When Daryl contacted me, she wanted to know if I would like to curate my own fat quarter bundle for her shop. Would I? Ummm… ya! So, without further ado – here is the Thread Riding Hood Fat Quarter Bundle currently available for sale at Fabric Spark! (Eeeekkk!) I’m so excited to have been able to choose from Daryl’s amazing selection. I still have the page I printed out with over 35 fabrics to add to my “must have” list!

Thread Riding Hood: What inspired you to start Fabric Spark?

Daryl: “I called 2013 my year of living creatively.  I committed to making every gift that year, and in the process, became smitten with this amazing community of creative talent around fabric, quilting and sewing.  They are generous, inventive, funny and enthusiastic makers. I think that collective is what really inspired me.”

Thread Riding Hood: What is your favorite type of sewing project?

Daryl: “I think the honest answer is whatever I’m working on in that moment.  I’ve only made a couple of quilts but I loved making them.  With my sisters, I slipcovered all of the old furniture in my little cabin in the woods and loved that.  I love smaller projects like bags and pillows.  I am probably the most chicken around apparel – but I LOVE the Merchant & Mills patterns so I’m being brave and sewing clothes.”

Thread Riding Hood: What is something coming up in the near future that you are especially excited about?

Daryl: “I’ll be at Creativ Festival on April 25 and 26.  Fabric Spark will have a booth in the show.  I’m excited and curious to see what that’s like.  I have four sisters helping me who are all incredibly talented makers (sewing, knitting, needlepoint, felting, etc.).  I’m excited about us being there together, though not at the same time…we won’t all fit.”

Daryl is giving away my most favorite fat quarter bundle ever – mine! (hee, hee!) This giveaway is open to all Thread Riding Hood readers, internationally (No one gets left out, hooray!). It will be run from today, April 4th – until Thursday, April 10th at midnight. Enter by filling out as many sections as you wish in the Rafflecopter widget below. More points = more chances to win!

a Rafflecopter giveaway
And just so you have somewhere to start shopping… like you need an excuse?! Here are links to all of the Thread Riding Hood bundle fabrics – pick your favorites and go get ’em! Of course, they are amazing all together – so you can also get the bundle here.

Note: Fabric Spark is a Thread Riding Hood sponsor and I have received my own fat quarter bundle as part of this post. As usual, I will not post anything that I don’t love myself, and my opinions will always be my own.

 

Quiet Book Sew-Along: Purse/Pocket Photo Album Page – Materials & Printable Pattern {week 6}

by | Apr 3, 2014

Ready for the next Quiet Book Sew-Along Page? This week we are gathering materials and cutting out everything we need for the Purse/Pocket Photo Album page. I decided to add a new version of this page because I am trying to create a unisex book. Everyone wears jeans – so a little jean pocket seemed the best way to go! Next week will cover making the Pocket with the mini Photo Album and the week after will be the tutorial for making the Purse version.

The mini Photo Album can hold up to 12 photos. Each little vinyl pocket is double-sided and the little square photos are so cute. I filled the new album with pictures of when my girls were little, because babies love looking at other babies! When I made the original quiet book, I put a photo of each relative in the book, so my youngest could learn to recognize their faces. (If you are just starting find all the information you need on this Sew-Along page.)

Shopping List:

I recommend that the background for this page be a quilting cotton weight so it is not too thick later when you stitch the pages together. Make sure to get the materials needed for both versions as well as the materials needed for your chosen page version. The pattern pieces are provided under the materials listing and directions for cutting below that. If you’d like, print out the pattern pieces now so you can cut them out as you go. If you chose to make this book with the cohesive look, you will need to use your cohesive fabric for the background of this page.

Materials needed for both versions:

  1. PATTERN PIECES:
    1. Click here for the Purse version pattern pieces
    2. Click here for the Pocket version pattern pieces
  2. Page Background
    1. Option 1: 3 piece ombré background – Top & Bottom pieces: 3 1/4″ high x 9″ wide + Middle piece: 3 1/2″ high x 9″ wide
    2. Option 2: 1 piece 9″x9″
  3. Page Interfacing: 1 piece 9″x9″ square, medium weight fusible interfacing (*all interfacing is from your Week 1 shopping list)
  4. Album Outer/Lining: 2 pcs 3.5” x 7”
  5. Album Vinyl: 2 3/4” x 5 3/4”, cut 1 for every 2 photos you have (I used 12 gauge, 8 gauge would be fine as well)
  6. Album Batting: 2 pcs of low loft batting, 2.75” x 3”
  7. Album Interfacing: 2 pcs 3 1/2” x 7” medium weight fusible interfacing *
  8. Album Photos: 2 1/4″ square
  9. Ribbon: 8″ long to attach the album to the purse/pocket
  10. Ribbon: 3 1/2″ for the side tab

Materials needed for Purse Version Only:

  1. Purse Outer/Lining: 2 pieces, 7 1/2” wide x 6” high
  2. Purse Outer Interfacing: 1 piece, 7 1/2” x 6” – medium weight fusible interfacing *
  3. Ribbon: 1 piece, 7″ – to embellish top edge of purse
  4. Ribbon: 2 pieces, 2″ each – for purse loops
  5. Metal Hoops: 2 pieces, 1″ diameter
  6. Purse Handle: 1 piece 8″ x 2″
  7. Purse Handle Interfacing: 1 piece 8″ x 2″ – medium weight fusible interfacing *

Materials needed for Pocket Materials Only:

  1. Pocket Outer/Lining: 2 pieces, 6 1/2” wide x 7” high
  2. Pocket Outer Interfacing: 1 piece, 6 1/2” x 7” – medium weight fusible interfacing *

Before you begin: 

  • Print out the pattern piece pdf on letter size (8.5″ x 11″) or A4 paper. Important: Do not select “fit to page” when printing, make sure you print at the original size. Once you have printed the pages, measure the 1″ test square to ensure the pattern is the correct size.

Cutting Instructions:

  • Pre-wash (if possible, a baby might be chewing on this book!) and iron your fabric well before beginning.
  1. Cut 2 of either the purse or pocket using the printable pattern piece provided in the materials listing.
  2. Cut each piece of fabric, interfacing or ribbon as it is noted in the materials listing.

Your pieces should match the drawings below – check the photo that matches your desired version.

Purse Version

Pocket Version

That’s it for this week. See you next week to put together the pocket version!

Warp & Weft Sewing Society: Storybook – Flutter Sleeve Nightgown {a tutorial to draft & sew}

by | Apr 1, 2014

When I opened my email a few weeks ago I saw there was a note from Esmari, owner of the online fabric store Warp & Weft. When I read what she had to say I was excited, to say the least – Esmari was asking if I would like to be part of her Sewing Society. Umm… really? The one I obsessively follow around the interweb? Yes, ok, sign me up (like yesterday!). Break for an extended happy dance! Here is an introduction to Warp & Weft and my first Sewing Society reveal, a darling tutorial for a nightgown every little princess would love to wear. (Trust me, I’ve got 2 of them!)

The Warp & Weft Sewing Society centers around some really great bloggers and sewists from across Canada that sew using Esmari’s well-curated stock of fabrics. If you have not visited her shop as yet, you are in for a treat. (I also interviewed her last year.) Esmari has an amazing sense of design and has chosen her fabrics accordingly. When your fabric arrives it looks as amazing as you would want to expect – brown paper packages tied up in string – literally. Gorgeous, and that’s just the packaging!

For my first reveal, I was able to work with Storybook, the latest fabric collection by Kate & Birdie for Moda. This fabric is seriously the softest brushed cotton you can imagine. If it were not for the nightgowns, I would have made a baby quilt with it, front and back – it’s that soft! I used the “Hot Air Balloon”, “Castle”, and “Mistletoe” prints in peach, but Esmari has the more unisex Banana and boy-centred Aqua colourways available as well – making your choice that much harder! (Trust me, you should just buy the bundle!)

Want to make the nightgown? I’ve included all of the steps you need below. This raglan sleeve nightgown has an elasticized neckline to help the little ones with dressing. It also makes it super comfortable and easy to customize for multiple sizes. I was able to use the same size for both of my daughters by only changing the elastic and hem lengths. This tutorial may seem long, but it is not hard, just follow the steps one at a time. I’ve included lots of information and photos so you get a great result!

Please email me if you have any questions, sherri@threadridinghood.com, and I’ll do my best to help you out. And of course, I’d love to see your creations! You can share your projects on Twitter and Instagram @sherrisylvester with the hashtag #alongforthreadride or #threadridinghood, or post them on the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page. (As usual, this tutorial is for personal/charitable use only – thanks!)

To Draft this, you will need:

  • large roll of paper
  • letter size paper
  • pencil/marker for drafting
  • scissors
  • ruler/straight edge
To Sew this (check below for sizing information), you will need:
  • 1 yd/metre for the main fabric & flutter sleeves
  • 1/4 yd/metre for the casing & contrast band (a fat quarter (18″x22″) will work as well)
  • 1/4 – 3/8″ elastic
  • Matching thread
  • Self-drafted pattern piece with sleeve, casing and contrast band measurements (as per instructions below)
  • your normal sewing supplies
Before you begin:
  • Will this draft a pattern piece that will fit my child? This tutorial uses a 1 yd/mtr piece of 42″ wide piece of fabric (after it is pre-washed). Measure around your child’s chest. Due to the loose fit of this gown, if the chest measurement is roughly 18″-27″ this tutorial should work to fit your child. To determine if the gown length will fit within 1 yd/metre, put a well-fitting but not tight tee on your child and measure from the bottom of the armhole to the desired length. If this measurement is not longer than about 26″ everything should fit within 1 yd. Of course, please draft the pattern piece first, and take into account the sleeve, casing and contrast band pieces before purchasing your fabric to avoid disappointment. Also, if the length is too long the child will not be able to walk within the 40″ circle of the gown hem. It is good to double-check this before you begin.
  • This doesn’t fit my child, what should I do? You could use a thinner/wider piece of paper (for “Drafting the pattern piece: Step 2”) to change the width of the gown to fit a smaller/larger child or even an adult. Take the recipient’s chest measurement and divide it by 4. Double this number and use that as your new paper width measurement. If you are short on fabric, you could probably even get away with only adding 1/2 of the divided chest measurement, instead of doubling it. Take all of the pattern pieces into account when buying fabric. The cutting layout may also need to be different.
  • Measure the Length: Place  a well-fitting (but not tight) tee on your child. Measure from the bottom of the armhole down to the desired length. Note this for later. Keep the tee around, you will use it to draft the pattern piece.

Here we go – Drafting the pattern piece:

  1. Fold the tee in half with wrong side out and fold sleeves into the body along seam line.
  2. Cut a letter/A4 size piece of paper to 10″ wide (or other width as discussed in the “Before you begin” section above).
  3. Line up the folded tee with the side seam on the right side of the paper and the neckline at the top of the paper.
  4. Mark the right side of the shoulder seam (where the neckline is) on your paper. Also mark the top of the side seam (where it meets the armhole).
  5. Remove the tee and draw a curved line between the two marks. This is your armhole. (It is helpful to have the curve end in a 90° angle  between the bottom of the armhole and the side seam.)
  6. Measure the armhole and make a mark at the halfway point and at 1″ past the halfway point (towards the shoulder seam).
  7. Draw a straight line across to the left side of the paper that is parallel to the paper top & bottom. Now, curve the straight line starting about halfway across up to the 2nd armhole mark. Cross off the second half of the straight line – you will not use this for the pattern piece.
  8. Measure the armhole mark from the top of your paper to the 2nd armhole mark. Multiply this measurement by two and write it down. This is your strap length. (My measurement was 5 1/2″ for both girls.)
  9. Cut out the pattern piece along the neckline and armhole. This is the top of the dress/gown.
  10. Get out your large sheet of paper. Kids’ easel paper is great for this step, or taping several sheets of letter paper together works as well.
  11. Place the left side of the pattern piece on the left side of the larger paper, trace the top of the pattern piece.
  12. Subtract 4″ from your length measurement (from the “Before you begin” section, above) for the bottom contrast band. Measure down to this new measurement – this will be called the hemline. Draw a straight line between the armhole and hemline, and then another line from the side seam back to the left side of the paper. Make sure the pattern piece is 10″ across (from edge to edge) all of the way down. (My length measurement was 18″ for my 3 year old and 22″ for my 6 year old.)
  13. Add 1/4″ seam allowance to the neckline and 3/8″ seam allowance to the armhole, side seam and hemline.
  14. Write “Cut on Fold” on the pattern edge, and the pattern details in the centre – including:
    1. Strap Length: This is from step 8. My measurement was 5.5″.
    2. Strap Size: You will need 2 pieces 5 1/2″ wide x double the Strap Length (My strap length measurement was 5 1/2″ so I doubled it and cut 2 pieces 5 1/2″ wide x 11″ long.)
    3. Contrast Band Size: Measure the pattern’s hemline including the seam allowance. Cut 2 pieces 8 3/4″ high x double the width of the hemline measurement you just took. (My hemline width was 10 3/8″. I cut 2 pieces 8 3/4″ high by 20 3/4″ wide.)
    4. Casing Size: Measure the pattern’s neckline. Your Casing Length = “Neckline Width x 4” + “Strap Length x 4″. Cut 1 piece 1 1/4″ wide x casing length. (My casing length was 54”. Which cam from me adding 8″ x 4 plus 5 1/2″ x 4.)
  15. Done! Cut out the paper pattern piece.

Here we go – Cutting out the Nightgown:

  1. Make sure to pre-wash your fabric and iron well before you continue.
  2. Fold your fabric in half and iron to mark a crease. Unfold and fold each selvage (pre-finished, not raw) edge to the centre mark. You will have an aprox. 10.5″ wide folded edge on each side of your main fabric.
  3. Lay the pattern piece on the fabric with the fold at the left-side fold of the fabric (noting one-way fabrics are in the correct direction). Cut one. Turn the pattern piece upside down, with the top of the pattern piece still at the top of the fabric.
  4. Line up the fold edge at the right-side fold of the fabric. Cut one. Now you should have two opposite main dress/gown pieces.
  5. Cut 2 sleeve pieces from the bottom of the main outer fabric.
  6. Cut the casing as multiple pieces from the 1/4 metre. Stitch them together to make the correct length as noted on your pattern piece.
  7. Cut 2 contrast bands from the 1/4 metre as well.


Here we go – Sewing the Nightgown:

  1. Prepare the casing: Turn 1/4″ to the wrong side along one edge of the casing length. I recommend using this folding template.
  2. Prepare the sleeves: Fold each sleeve piece in half lengthwise. Iron well.
  3. Prepare the contrast band: (1) Match up each short edge with right sides together. Pin. (2) Stitch with a 3/8″ seam allowance to make a large tube. (3) Iron your seams open. Fold the tube sides in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together, matching raw edges. You will have a large tube with right sides showing on both sides, one folded edge and one raw edge.
  4. Attach the sleeves to the front: (1) Lay one dress/gown piece right side up. Match up the top of the armhole with the short raw edge of one sleeve. The raw edges of the sleeve will line up with the neckline, the folded edge will be within the armhole area. Double-check any one-way fabric to ensure it will be right side up once it is sewn. (2) Stitch each sleeve with a 3/8″ seam, starting at the neckline and continuing to the edge of the armhole. We will be using the seam line to hem the edge of the armhole later on.
  5. Attach the sleeves to the back: Lay the front dress/gown fabric right sides together with the back. (The front and back are the same.) Match, pin and stitch the sleeves to the back the same way you did for the other side.
  6. Side Seams: (1) Match the side seams of the front and back dress/gown. Pin. (2) Stitch both side seams with a 3/8″ seam. (3) Finish the edges of your seam with pinking shears or sew a zig-zag stitch over the edges so they will not fray.
  7. Finish the armhole: (1) Use pinking shears or a zig-zag stitch to finish the straight edges of the 2 armholes (the curved edges will resist fraying because they are mostly bias-cut). (2) Clip the bottom of the curve 5 or 6 times to allow it to open up.
  8. Finish the sleeves: (1) Press each sleeve seam allowance towards the main dress/gown. (2) Press the rest of the armhole seam under along the stitching line. Make sure to fold the seam over enough to hide the stitching inside your dress/gown. (3) Top-stitch about 1/8″ away from the armhole seam. Stitch from neckline to neckline on each armhole, this will stitch down the sleeve seam allowance and hem the underarm portion of the armhole.
  9. Adding the contrast band hem: (1) Place the contrast band tube over the bottom of the dress/gown matching the seams and raw edges. Pin. (2) Stitch with a 3/8″ seam allowance. (3) Finish the edges with pinking shears or a zig-zag stitch. (4) Press the seam up towards the dress/gown. Top-stitch along the bottom of the dress/gown aprox. 1/8″ away from the edge of the contrast band.
  10. Adding the casing: (1) Pin the unfolded edge of the casing to the dress/gown neckline somewhere on the dress/gown (do not start the casing on a sleeve). Match the right side of the casing to the wrong side of the neckline. (2) Starting aprox. 3″ in from the beginning of your casing, stitch along the edge of the casing/neckline with a 1/4″ seam until you reach the point 3″ from where you started. Stop stitching and remove your fabric. (3) Fold the fabric in half about halfway between the un-stitched space. Line up your casing and pin. (4) Draw a line on the casing that follows the folded edge of the dress/gown fabric. (5) Stitch along the line being careful to only stitch the casing. Trim the casing seam allowance to 1/4″. Unfold the fabric and casing. Finish stitching the casing to the dress/gown. Iron the casing up, and fold it over the front edge of the nightgown so the wrong side of the casing is on the right side of the gown/dress. (6) Iron the casing up along the neckline, but do not press out the 1/4″ fold you added previously.
  11. Finishing the casing: (1) Fold the casing down over the front of the dress/gown along the seam line. Pin the casing to the neckline making sure the 1/4″ edge is folded under. (2) Top stitch the casing to the neckline along the bottom folded edge with a 1/8″ seam allowance. Leave a 1″ gap in the seam for inserting the elastic.
  12. Insert the Elastic: (1) Feed your elastic through the entire casing. (2) Find the sleeve seam you reached when inserting the elastic, stitch through the casing from top to bottom to secure the elastic. (3) Find the next sleeve seam and measure between the seams. Pull the elastic through the casing to tighten/loosen this measurement until it equals the Strap Length from “Drafting: Step 14”. Secure the elastic by stitching through the casing at the second sleeve seam. (4) Now measure across the back/front neckline between the sleeve seams – this should be 1/2″ or so larger than the Strap Length. Secure the elastic by stitching through the casing at the next sleeve seam. (5) Repeat Step 12.3 for the next sleeve and then the final neckline back/front.
  13. Finishing the Dress/Gown: (1) After measuring the final back/front, cut the elastic with 1/2″ extra space for overlap. (I had not trimmed the elastic in the photo.) Pin, stitch to secure. (2) Place the elastic within the casing, top-stitch the gap shut, matching your other stitching. Done!

Try your lovely nightgown on your little one and watch their happy dance. Or maybe a fairy princess ballet? They’ve inspired both in my daughters!

Love it? Don’t forget to pick up your own Kate & Birdie Storybook fabric from Warp & Weft!

** Please note: This is a sponsored post and the fabric was provided to me at no cost by Warp & Weft. However, as always, all opinions are my own and I will never promote something to you that I do not love myself. **