by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 2, 2013
Sometimes I troll thrift stores looking for fabric. They can be a great source for vintage fabric, if you know what you are looking for. This dress was made with one of my finds. I think it might have cost me $3.00, and it is in great shape! So far the research I have done has not led me very far to finding out much about the “Petticoats and Pantaloons” fabric from Roth Greeting Cards by the Manes Organization. One person’s guess is that it is roughly 1970’s era. Either way, I love it! Do you shop for vintage fabric?
Vintage Fabric Dress
I originally made this dress for my oldest, I think about a year and a half ago. She wore it a few times, but somehow when I was drafting the bodice for the dress I did not put in enough ease, so she didn’t wear it often. I pulled it out last week to try on my youngest and it’s perfect. Thank goodness for remembering to go through the boxed up clothing!
The bodice was altered to be larger and traced from another pattern, not sure which – shows how well I keep track! The skirt was made as full as I could manage, it is the entire length of the full cut of fabric. I think I may have gotten about a metre. I also made it as long as possible, which decreases the “twirl factor”, but increases the cuteness!
I think I am really loving the maxi-dress length on my kids right now, even though it is not so good for playing in. The kids love it because they can pretend to be princesses. I remember feeling that way in a long dress when I was their age too!
I generally don’t get too excited about buttons, but I think that has more to do with the fact that I don’t sew a lot of items with buttons! When I made this dress I made the bodice just long enough that I was able to only use 3 buttons, because these were the perfect ones! They are not wooden, but look it from a distance. I can see becoming very addicted to collecting them! Actually, I sew a lot less clothing than I think up in my head. I’d love to sew more, but the time it takes seems always to be directly in opposition to me doing anything else useful around the house – anyone out there feel the same way?!
It is still warm here – hopefully for a while, so the dress will get a lot more wear. I think it will look good with a long sleeve top underneath for fall as well, because I don’t think it will still fit next summer. Then I suppose it is going to be relegated to the boxes labeled “Keep” in my daughters’ closet. I can’t bring myself to give away the things I have made my girls – not yet at least… What do you do with the things you have sewn when they don’t fit anymore?
We’ve got some exciting things happening between posts here at Thread Riding Hood. A few shops have asked, so I am now selling Licenses for three TRH projects so you can make and sell items that have used the free tutorial – more on that later on in the week! I’ve also got a pattern or two in the works (I’m SUPER excited!) and am hoping to do a Facebook pattern tester call later on this month.
Also – if you have been waiting patiently for the Empire Waist Scirocco Sundress tutorial, I will have that for you on Thursday of this week – along with a surprise from Figgy’s Patterns! You’ll not want to miss it!
by Sherri Sylvester | Aug 27, 2013
I made up a quick sunglasses case for myself at the end of July, and thought I would post it here as a tutorial. Turns out, the more I thought about posting it the more I thought that there must be a better way than the flat, very soft case that I made in about 15 minutes. It had no shape and no intrigue, and worst of all I don’t think it would do a spectacular job of taking good care of my sunglasses either! Since I’m super good at procrastinating (and really busy with the kids this summer) I gathered up all of the sunglasses cases that I could find and lined them up on my cutting table Sunday night. Too late into the night to mention, I came up with the Sunny Glasses Case! It is really simple to make, mostly because I’ve done all of the trial and error through 6 or 7 versions so you don’t have to!
Come #alongforthreadride! Follow Thread Riding Hood on social media for sneak peeks, tips and process photos. Hope to see you there!
Once you’ve finished one, you can likely make another in about 1/2 hour or less. Which makes it a super quick gift, and it can be made for almost anyone. Men, Women and children of all ages would enjoy a safe place to stash their sunglasses. Bonus, it doesn’t look like it only took half an hour to make (woot!) and – added bonus – you can use up some of your large scraps to make it! And, just in case you think I’m crazy posting a sunglasses case tutorial when Fall is approaching my part of the world, I do wear my sunglasses a lot in the winter. And these would make great stocking stuffers if you are inclined to start gifts now! As I was making these I came up with 4 useful options for making the case. Option 1 makes for a regular case with Velcro closure. Option 2 has a button & elastic closure and a swivel clip, this is so my oldest can attach it to her school backpack and (hopefully) keep her sunglasses unscratched and un-lost! Option 3 is mine, I added a magnetic closure to the flap. Option 4 is for my husband, who wanted it to be able to attach to his car’s visor. * Update: Don’t feel like sewing a Sunny Glasses Case yourself? Buy one from a licensed seller! Check out the sellers list. Are you a shop owner? You can buy a Sunny Glasses Case seller’s license as an instant download. *
This tutorial covers all 4 ways of creating the Sunny Glasses Case. Follow the main instructions for Option 1. The other options use the same directions with additional steps. These are listed below the directions for Option 1. You will need:
- 11″wide by 10″h scrap of your main outer fabric and lining fabric
- 10″x10″ scrap of fusible fleece
- 5″x9″ plastic canvas (I used size 7 mesh)
- The pattern pieces – Click on this link to download the printable pdf: Sunny Glasses Case pattern pieces
- Other Helpful Things: School Glue Stick, Point Turning Tool or Chopstick, Water Soluble (or other) fabric marker, Pins
- Option 1 & 4 Only – 5″ loop Velcro and 2.5″ hook Velcro
- Option 2 Only – Button Closure + Swivel Clip: Button, Hair Elastic or 4″ piece of Round Elastic, Swivel Clip with 1″ D-ring, Fabric for strap: 5″x4″
- Option 3 Only – Magnetic Closure: 1 Magnetic Snap
- Option 4 Only – Car Visor: 1 piece of 1″ wide elastic, 9″ long
Materials for Option 1
Before you begin:
- Print out all 3 pages of the pattern piece pdf on letter size (8.5″ x 11″) or A4 paper. Important: Do not select “fit to page” when printing, make sure you print at the original size. Once you have printed the pages, measure the 1″ test square on page 1 to ensure the pattern is the correct size.
- Cut Outer and Lining, Fusible Fleece and Plastic Canvas as per the pattern pieces. Make sure to line the pattern pieces up on the fold where necessary. I found the easiest way to cut the plastic canvas was to precut my pattern piece, trace the edges with a permanent marker onto the canvas, and then cut it out.
- If you want to piece your fabric together (I have added a small contrast piece on the closure edge of the flap), do this first and then cut your outer fabric. Topstitch after fusing your fleece for a “quilted” look.
- Mark the “Velcro” and “Flap” marks (as indicated) onto the right side of the Outer fabric with a water soluble fabric marker. Be sure to mark the “Flap” marking on each edge of the Outer fabric.
Cut Materials for Option 1
Option 1 – Velcro Closure:
(1) Iron Fusible Fleece (centred) on the wrong side of your outer fabric. (2) Use your glue stick to glue the loop side of your Velcro to the rounded edge of the lining. Centre it 1/4″ above the bottom of the curve. (3) Stitch along both long edges of your Velcro, you do not need to stitch the short sides. (4) Round the corners of the hook side of your Velcro. Use your glue stick to centre it on the “Velcro” mark on your outer fabric. Stitch all 4 sides neatly. (5) Place your Outer and Lining fabrics right sides together. Pin around the curve between the “Flap” marks and the straightest edge (see photo). (6) With the fleece side up, use the edge of your fused fleece as a stitching guide. Do not stitch ON the fleece, stitch BESIDE it. Stitch the straightest edge from point to point. Stitch around the curve, begin at one “Flap” mark and end at the other. (7) Trim the excess Velcro & clip the curve where the Velcro is – you do not need to clip the entire curve. (8) Clip your seam allowance at both “Flap” markings. Clip up to but NOT through the seam threads. (9) Turn everything right side out through the openings. (10) Pin the straightest edge and top-stitch approximately 1/8″ away from the edge. (11) Pin the large curve between the “Flap” marks. Do not stitch – we will do this later. (12) Make sure the un-sewn seam allowances are lying flat on the outside (see photo). (13) Draw a line across the outer fabric between your “Flap” markings. Topstitch along the line. (14) Insert your plastic canvas between the lining and the fusible fleece. Centre it from side to side. It should be in approximately 1/4″ from each fusible fleece edge. Use two pins to secure the plastic canvas in place. (15) Almost done! With the outer right sides together, fold the bottom of the glasses case up. The point should meet up with the top of the “Flap” marking. Pin along the edge. (16) We are going to finish the case with a French Seam. Stitch a scant 1/4″ seam on both sides of the case along the raw edges. (17) Trim the seams you just finished to approximately 1/8″ on each side. Flip the bottom of the case right side out. (18) Finish the case by stitching around the edges with a generous 1/8″ seam. Start at the bottom on one side and end at the bottom on the other. Do not stitch across the bottom edge. Done! For Options 2,3 and 4, follow the Step numbers as outlined for each Option. Example: STEP (1). (2.1a)… means – follow STEP (1) above, then follow (2.1a) as outlined in the Option 2 instructions.
Option 2 – Button Closure + Swivel Clip:
My oldest picked the Monkey Bizness – Market Stall fabric used in her sunglasses case when I placed my latest Warp & Weft order. I love how it turned out, the print is just the right scale for this project! STEP 1. (2.1a) Make the strap. Iron your fabric in half lengthwise to make a 2″x5″ piece. Unfold and iron each edge into the centre, refold. Top-stitch each edge. (2.1b) Fold the strap around your D-ring. Stitch as close as you can to the ring – it might help to use a zipper foot. Set the strap & clip aside. STEP 5. (2.5a) Fold your elastic in half, centre it at the closure end of the case. Pin it between the outer and lining, 1/4″ in from the edge, with about 1/2″ of elastic (folded) on the “inside” of the case and the rest sticking out. (I have completed Step 6 in this photo) STEP 6, Note: Double-stitch over the elastic when you reach it. STEPS 8-14. (2.14a) Pin and Baste strap in place on outer fabric, centred as per the photo. Trim excess strap to match the seam allowance. STEPS 15-18. (2.18a) Place your glasses in the case and sew the button on where appropriate. Done!
Option 3 – Magnetic Closure:
STEP 1. (3.1a) Attach the bottom piece of your magnetic snap centred on the Velcro mark you made on the outer fabric. (3.1b) Attach the top of the snap to the lining 1″ away from the curved flap edge. Be sure to interface behind the lining snap. (I used a scrap of fusible fleece.) STEPS 5-6. STEPS 8-18. Done!
Option 4 – Car Visor:
STEPS 1-14. (4.14a) Centre your elastic piece across the fabric as shown in the photo. Baste the edges with a 1/8″ seam allowance. Trim the excess elastic. STEPS 15-17. (4.17a) Make sure the elastic is along the back of the case when you turn it inside out. This is important when stitching the next step. STEP 18. Done! There you have it! One (or 20!) easy, customizable gifts for everyone in your life. Take a minute to post a photo to the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page, we’d all love to see your creation!
Are you a seller that would like to buy a Licence to Sew and Sell the Sunny Glasses Case Pattern? If you are interested in selling cases made with this pattern you can buy a license here and receive an instant pdf download!
As usual, please feel free to use my patterns/tutorials for your personal projects and gifts and for charitable fundraising events. Please do not sell anything made with this pattern unless you have purchased a Seller’s License. Please contact me for more information: sherri (at) threadridinghood (dot) com
by Sherri Sylvester | Aug 16, 2013
I’m in the midst of (what seems like) turning our house upside-down. The kids’ playroom upstairs has now moved to the basement so they have a TON more space to run around. My sewing area and my husband’s office are moving from the basement to join forces in what was the playroom and right now it doesn’t look habitable! Hopefully by the end of the weekend?! In the midst of it all I’m super excited, I have wanted to re-organize my sewing things for a while now and this is the perfect time. I think I’m even going to put all of my fabric on mini-bolts as per this Smashed Peas and Carrots idea.
Now, back to the shorts. If you haven’t seen Monday’s post on how to shorten your shorts, I’m doing a mini 2-part series on pattern altering. Today I’m covering off how to widen or narrow the legs of your shorts. Before you use these instructions you might want to read through the first few paragraphs in the previous post. There are some good instructions on tracing and pattern paper, and an explanation of why I needed to alter the shorts pattern in the first place!
{how to} Narrow the Leg of your Shorts
(1) Fold your pattern piece down the centre (along the side of the shorts), line up the hemline from one side to the other, the waist may not match up. I drew in the dashed line to show where the fold is. This pattern piece is already marked at the new hemline (see this post), I have not removed the excess pattern paper because we can use it later. (2a) Now we do some math. Measure around the shorts recipient’s leg where the hemline will be, and note the measurement as A. Measure the hemline on the pattern and call it H. (2b) Add ease (1″ for knits) and twice your seam allowance to measurement A – call this new number B. (2c) Subtract B from H and get measurement C (this number is the amount you need to remove from the pattern piece to narrow the leg of your shorts). (2d) Divide C in half to get D, you will use D to remove the same amount from both sides of the shorts. Now we can move on!
(3) Note down two measurements on your current pattern, for reference later – 1: From centre-front to centre-back (along the waist/top of your pattern piece) 2: Your side seam from top to (shortened) hemline, along the fold you created. (4) Mark D (in my case 1/2″) along the hemline of your shorts and on either side of your centre fold line. (5) Draw two diagonal lines from the top of your pattern at the fold line, through the D marking you made on the hemline, and continue to the bottom of your pattern piece.
(6) Cut along your diagonal lines ALMOST to the top of the pattern, leave a little hinge to hold the pattern together. (7) Tape the pattern piece back together along the line. (8) Straighten your hemline (a) and waistline (b) by lining up the edge marks of the current ones and drawing a line with your ruler. (9) Before you cut out your new pattern, use your noted measurements from Step 3, and measurement B from Step 2 to make sure they are correct. Your new waistline should match the old waistline measurement, the new hemline should match your new intended width (Measurement B), and the side seam measurement should match your old measurement from Step 3.
(10) Cut your pattern piece at the new hem and waist lines and you are done. Go stitch up some shorts!
{how to} Widen the Leg of your Shorts
(1) Fold your pattern piece down the centre (along the side of the shorts), line up the hemline from one side to the other, the waist may not match up. I drew in the dashed line to show where the fold is. This pattern piece is already marked at the new hemline (see this post), I have not removed the excess pattern paper because we can use it later. (2a) Now we do some math. Measure around the shorts recipient’s leg where the hemline will be, and note the measurement as A. Measure the hemline on the pattern and call it H. (2b) Add ease (1″ for knits) and twice your seam allowance to measurement A – call this new number B. (2c) Subtract H from B and get measurement C (this number is the amount you need to add to the pattern piece to widen the leg of your shorts).
(3) Note down two measurements on your current pattern, for reference later – 1: From centre-front to centre-back (along the waist/top of your pattern piece) 2: Your side seam from top to (shortened) hemline, along the fold you created. (4) Cut along the folded centre line ALMOST to the top of the pattern, leave a little hinge to hold the pattern together. (5) Find a piece of paper as tall as your pattern piece and a bit wider than measurement C. Place the paper under your pattern and use a ruler to measure width C between the hemline markings you created (in my case I added 1″). Tape the paper into the pattern to hold it in it’s new position.
(6) Draw a new hemline by lining the ruler up between the outside hemline markings. (7) Add a piece of paper as wide as your pattern piece under the waistline area and draw a new waistline by lining the ruler up between the outside waistline markings. (8) Before you cut out your new pattern, use your noted measurements from Step 3, and measurement B from Step 2 to make sure they are correct. Your new waistline should match the old waistline measurement, the new hemline should match your new intended width (Measurement B), and the side seam measurement should match your old measurement from Step 3. (9) Cut your pattern piece at the new hem and waist lines and you are done. Go stitch up some shorts!
All done, wasn’t too painful, eh? In reality what I did was a lot quicker. I knew from making the Skort pattern before that the legs were roughly 2″ or so too large around. So I cut up the centre of the pattern piece and overlapped the pieces (to narrow the leg) by about 2″. If you have not made the pattern before, however, it is not so easy, and it is better to follow the instructions above!
If you happen to have a two piece shorts pattern (as opposed to the one piece pattern we used above) you can remove the excess in a similar fashion. You will need to take in or widen the back and front pattern pieces. Take in or widen each leg by half of the the amount you need to change. Fold each front and back pattern piece in half and follow the instructions from there for each leg. (Let me know if you would be interested in a tutorial, and I’ll put one together.)
Hope that helps! We’ll see if another post comes up before Monday. It all depends on how far we get on the sewing room! Let me know if you have any questions, I’m always happy to help.
by Sherri Sylvester | Aug 13, 2013
I made this Tennis Skort for my oldest a while ago to match this one that I made for my youngest in May. I love this Heidi &Finn pattern, the sizing is great and they turn out really cute. This skirt is especially good because of the shorts that are built into it. It’s a perfect match for little girls that like to play modestly at the park and still wear skirts!
I did find one change I would have made to the first Tennis Skort, and that is to make the shorts’ legs a bit narrower. I found that they were very loose, not so good for the coverage I am looking for under a skirt. When I made this size I took in about an inch or so to make them more like a bike short, and was much happier with the final result.
When I asked you what to write about in this coming year, I got a reply from Jonquil looking for alteration tips – so, here we are! Today I’m sharing tips on how to change the length of a simple one piece shorts pattern (easiest step first!). In the next few days I will post how to make them wider or narrower around the leg. My original plan was to do them all today, but the summer (and the kids) are calling this week and my time was cut short. Do you find that the days seem to fly by more quickly when the weather is good?!
Altering a Shorts Pattern – Take 1
If you are going to alter a pattern, it is a good idea to print out an extra copy or trace the current one you are using – just in case you make a mistake! For this tutorial I have printed off a mini version of the pattern piece onto regular paper because it is easier to photograph. If you are tracing yours, freezer paper is a good substitute for regular paper if you have it around. It is light enough to see through for tracing, and the plastic coating makes your final pattern more durable. Because I do not want to compromise Heidi and Finn’s pattern, I’m using my size 3 simple knit shorts pattern piece for the sample photos. You can draft your own shorts pattern using this tutorial if you’d like. Even better, if you have one you’d like to change already just follow along below!
{how to} Shorten Your Shorts
(1) Measure your child, or a pair of shorts that fit, and note the length of the inseam you would like to alter the pattern to – This is “A”.
(2) Add the seam allowance and hem allowance (check your pattern instructions) to “A”. This new number is now “B”.
(3) Measure “B” length down from the crotch on your pattern piece and mark it. Do this for both the front and the back inseam.
(4) Draw a line across the pattern piece between your two marks. This is your new length line.
If you are altering the width of the shorts, do NOT cut off the excess length just yet. If you are stopping here, go ahead and cut along the line. Follow your pattern instructions to sew up your shorter shorts (now the perfect length!)
See you soon with more pattern altering instructions! What would you be interested in knowing how to alter when you sew?
by Sherri Sylvester | Jul 29, 2013
Update: The tutorial for this dress is now posted! Link: http://threadridinghood.com/wordpress/empire-waist-scirocco-sundress-remix-tutorial/
I’ve been wanting to make this dress since I got the Scirocco pattern in a bundle here! I’m super happy with how it turned out. My daughter loves it and my husband was impressed… what more could I want?
Empire Waist Scirocco Sundress
This dress might look kind of familiar from this post not too long ago when I used a Charming Doodle idea to make a swimsuit from the Figgy’s Scirocco pattern. I really love with the twisted back in this pattern! It is not hard to do and the instructions are AMAZING. Not kidding – they include a way to stitch the whole bodice together from the inside so it does not need to be topstitched or handstitched together at the shoulders. If you don’t buy this pattern for anything but these instructions it is worth it!
I took a trip to Needlework a few weeks ago and picked up the green Peony fabric, the pink is from my Creativ Festival stash. Needlework is an amazing quilt shop in Hamilton, Ontario. I’m headed there with friends this week for their end-of-the-month Wednesday Craft Night. If you’re in the area and can come out it would be fun to meet you! In between sewing and chatting I’m going to try to get some photos so I can write up a review of their shop.
“Look Mom, I’m sewing!” Is that what I look like when I’m at my machine?!
I have the directions and photos all written up to make a tutorial of how I changed the Figgy’s pattern pieces and made this dress. I hope to get it to you in the next few weeks. I’ve got a “normal” busy summer schedule for the next few weeks that won’t lend itself much to writing up the tutorial! We going to a friends cottage this weekend and I have a birthday party to finish planning the following Saturday. I’m in the midst of packing and birthday shopping fun and I can’t believe my youngest is going to be three!
Since we are leaving for the cottage on Friday, I will be away for a while – so next week won’t have a Monday post. I’ve got something really fun planned for August 9th though – so make sure you come back to check it out!
S’mores at the cottage. It’s hard to believe this photo was taken a year ago, it feels like yesterday!
by Sherri Sylvester | Jul 25, 2013
** This post and images have been edited as of February 2016 with an updated version of this chart. **
Alright – the last Sew Essential post is here, and just as the giveaway ends. I hope to be able to tell you who won tomorrow or over the weekend.
I thought, because again – I can’t give you all something in the giveaway, that I would do up a free printable that you can use instead! I like to keep track of my girls’ measurements – because sewing genius usually strikes me at night, when I can’t measure them!
These are called the “Measure-Me Chart” because whenever I measure anyone in this house for a project one (or both) of the kids immediately run over to me and say “Measure me, Measure me!”. Aside from the obvious benefits of being more ready to sew for the kids (or grandkids!), it would be fun (and useful) to keep a series of these, one every 4-6 months, and save them in their baby books.
Download the BOY pdf here: Sew Essential #14 – Measurement Chart Boy and the GIRL pdf here: Sew Essential #14 – Measurement Chart Girl. These print easily one to a page (click the “fit to page” option when printing) or you could print them 2 or more to a page if you want to save paper.
Of course, I would be remiss if I did not profusely thank my husband for drawing the super-cute illustrations for these printables. Aren’t they great?! I’ll be back tomorrow or on the weekend with a Sew Essential roundup.
