by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 23, 2013
Happy Monday! I am in the middle of my 3rd Project Run and Play sew along project… so this week’s Monday post will be short and sweet. I cannot believe how long it takes thinking up, drafting, making and blogging a new clothing piece for my kids each week! It is so much fun though – I’m really enjoying it. I’ll be posting a teaser on Facebook today I think!
I made up this little drawstring backpack after being inspired by a ladybug one that I saw at a kid’s store a while back. It was the perfect idea to make for a 5 year old whose birthday party happened this last weekend.
Butterfly Drawstring Backpack
I love how the drawstrings come out of grommets in the casing to make the backpack straps. And they are adjustable with some easy button holes, so I got to choose some really great pink buttons (the photo doesn’t do them justice – they are kind of translucent with a bit of swirl) . I’m also happy that the wings stand out as well as they do, since the whole thing was a new project and I wasn’t 100% sure what to use to stiffen them.
It was pretty fun when my husband asked if the design was my own and then being able to tell him it was. The “That’s really impressive!” response was totally worth it! The hardest part though, was telling my daughters that it wasn’t for them… I have now promised to make them each one too! I’ve heard back from the birthday girl’s mom and apparently she likes it – Hooray!
My only dilemma now is how to make the next two – I could go over the top with a mash-up of patterns and colours or make a neutral base with solid coloured wings and spots… hmmm…. which would you make?
by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 19, 2013
I have to say, this Project Run and Play challenge was harder than I thought it would be. Making something candy-inspired that can still be worn on a regular basis is tricky! Thankfully my husband kept asking me to make his idea, (he came home with some inspirational Nerds for me last week) and so here it is. The colour-blocked Nerds-inspired Zip-up Hoodie.
Nerds-Inspired Hoodie
I originally resisted making this, because I couldn’t see me letting my daughter out of the house in what I envisioned in my head. Thankfully it actually turned out cute – a bit bright and colourful for my taste, but my style seems to be all over the map anyhow! To match the Nerds’ box the sweater is split down the centre – one side purple, one side pink. The exceptions are the patch pockets and the hood lining, which are the opposite colours. One side grape, one side strawberry – All sides delicious!
I used a pattern from a hoodie I had trace-drafted (is that a thing?!) a few years ago. I say traced, because I based the original hoodie on one that my daughter owned. I say drafted, because by the time I was done I had altered almost every pattern piece in one way or another!
My husband’s original vision also included a zipper in two different colours – buy two separating zippers, separate them and pair them up with the opposite colour zipper. unfortunately the fabric store did not have two separating zippers in pink and purple that were the same length. Also unfortunate, is that I now know that I could have bought two too-long zippers and shortened them to fit the sweater, which is what I did with the one-colour zipper anyhow. You learn as you go!
The sweater is wonderfully cozy and warm – perfect for fall. It is made from micro-fleece, and is super-soft. I used the same fabric for the “ribbing” on the sleeve ends and the bottom of the jacket, and for the hood lining.
Even though it is a knit fabric and won’t fray, I tried to finish each seam on the inside of the hoodie as well as the outside. I’ve been more conscious of construction lately and want to get a professional finish, even when it won’t be seen. Plus, it will make the sweater hold up longer too – bonus!
And don’t be fooled by this zipper’s good looks, it a force to be reckoned with, and I’m happy to report that in the end I won! I think I fought with it for over two hours, and I have the thread ends and broken needles to prove it… ‘nuf said.
Planning to add this to the sew along so late in the game (entries are due by Thursdays at midnight) I was a bit worried that someone else might use the same candy – therefore making me feel a tad like a copy-cat. Seems, so far, like I’m the only Nerds-ie one (hee hee) in the bunch. I’m happy with the results and my daughter has a warm hoodie for winter. Hooray! On to next week’s project theme – Mad for Plaid!
by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 16, 2013
So I’m sure you all have heard of this blog called Made by Rae (ha!), who hasn’t! And also, Rae’s Toddler Backpack pattern?! How boring of me to post something so common you say? True maybe, but I have a few ideas to share and a flapped pocket tutorial & pattern for you that could work on any purse or bag, but was originally sized for the Toddler Backpack.
Made by Rae – Toddler Backpack
I started the journey to this backpack by trying to find something “quick” to make for a newly-turned-1-year-old’s birthday. I did not like any of my ideas until I was searching through my patterns and found my well-loved copy of the Toddler Backpack pattern. I started out making one for my oldest when she was just under two, and have since made one for each of my nephews and a larger one for my youngest as well.
The pattern turns out so well, and is super-cute. My kids love filling it up too, and it is perfect for day-care or dropping them off at Grandma & Grandpa’s for the day. I was a bit hesitant to use it for this project because the original pattern did not come with a lining, and there was only “so much time” to make it, never mind hand-stitch the lining to the zipper. (Yes, it is true, it wouldn’t have taken that long – but I really don’t like handstitching!)
Rae has since included a section on lining the pack – and on how to make it a bit taller to fit most school-size folders. Still, I didn’t want to create an extra lining because it would involve sewing twice as many seams. (Yes, I really was that lazy in a hurry!) For the sake of my not photographing the process, I will run down the steps I took to line the inside.
- Cut lining pieces for everything as indicated in the instructions.
- Stitch the zipper panels together as indicated with one each of the lining and outer, right sides together, zipper tape sandwiched between. Stitch on both sides of the zipper panel. Press and top-stitch.
- Attach the side panels to the zipper panels as indicated, but sandwich the zipper panels in-between your lining and outer pieces again and stitch. Press and top-stitch.
- Attach the bottom panel by sandwiching it, one short side at a time, between each side’s outer and lining side panels. The second one will be a tad tricky to line up, but pin it and you will be fine.
- Turn it all around and you will have a fully lined side loop with raw edges on both sides.
- Attach it to the front and back panels as indicated.
- Bias tape bind the raw edges.
I also always have added two things to the pattern. First, I always cover the bottom panel in a layer of medium weight clear plastic before quilting it. It makes it a bit sturdier and also keeps it cleaner. I discovered a great way to stitch over plastic on the weekend as well – hurray – as I won’t be needing to spend the $15 on a Teflon foot for my machine anytime soon. I’ll be posting how I did it later in the week.
Bottom Quilted with Plastic
I also always add a pocket on the front. It’s a simple one, with an elastic loop sewn into the front-centre of the pocket flap. I love how it looks and it’s useful for all kinds of things. You can use a dollar store coloured hair-tie for the elastic, so it always matches!
You can download the pocket pattern pieces HERE. (Make sure to print them at 100% – do not choose Fit to Page. Check the 1″ test square once the pattern pieces are printed.) Here is a quick run-down on how to stitch them together:
(1) Cut one Outer, Lining and Interfacing piece for each flap and pocket pattern piece. (2) Fuse the Interfacing to the Outer pieces. (3) Mark as per the pattern pieces. (4) Pin right sides together between stitching marks. (5) Pin the elastic in place where indicated. The part of the elastic that will hold the button should be INSIDE the pocket flap.
(6) Stitch flap and pocket with a 1/4″ seam allowance, right sides together, beginning and ending at the indicated marks. (7) Clip the square corners and trim the curved corners with pinking shears (or clip). (8) Iron the seam allowances open for each pocket or flap opening (this trick). (9) Turn the pocket and flap right side out and press.
(10) Top-stitch the sides and bottom curved edge of the pocket flap – back-stitch over the elastic several times to secure. (11) Top-stitch the top edge (without the opening) of the pocket. (12) Align the pocket on the front of your back-pack. I like to leave an even space around the bottom and sides. Pin & stitch the sides and bottom of the pocket closing the opening as you go. (13) Align the pocket flap 1/2″ to 1″ above the top of the pocket. Stitch the top of the flap, again, closing your opening.
(14) Mark the centre-bottom of the elastic where it lays on your pocket. (15) Stitch your button on. Done!
And, talking about quick, I also omitted the piping. I was sad about that one because it looks so good, my husband even remembered that I usually put it on and asked about it! I just didn’t have any on hand and didn’t have the time to go out and buy some. I also didn’t have any D-rings, so the adjustble straps (which my daughters never adjusted anyhow) were taken out too. With a lined pack (minus sewing double the seams) and the piping and extra strap omitted it was even faster. Thankfully I’m happy with the results, due in part to the Michael Miller Zoology (from my trip to Hamilton) and Spa Scallop fabric! Love that their collections are colour coordinated! Hooray for a quick(er) gift idea!
I’m off to get started on my Project Run and Play idea for this week. Candy inspired here we come! Check out the great ideas already posted for the sew-along.
by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 12, 2013
I have decided to play along with the sew along portion of Project Run and Play this season. I have seen it before – but haven’t ever followed it. I think I’m addicted and it’s only the first week! I really like their format. You have 4 weeks with a theme for each week. If you are sewing along, you make something following the weekly theme and link it up. Then you wait… until Friday when you see who won! In the meantime there are 6 “Real” contestants that are chosen before the season starts. They are working on amazing projects following the same themes. You get to vote on which you like best, then the winner provides a tutorial for their creation the week following the voting. They even get amazing prizes. Fun, fun, fun!
The first week’s project is to create a remix of the free Oliver and S Popover Sundress. I love the pattern as-is, but since it is fall here, I didn’t think a sundress would get us very far and might be outgrown by next year. So, as a remix, I decided to make a knit version out of one of my old sweaters. The goal was to make a jumper that could go over a short or long sleeve top, making it great for fall and winter – hooray!
The sweater I cut up turned out to be great inspiration. It already had a slit cut into the front neckline – so it worked perfectly for the back of the new jumper. I was even able to keep the length of the dress and use the hemline of the sweater – so no new hems, hooray!
I was able to use both the skirt and yoke pattern pieces from the original pattern. I finished the arm holes by facing them with bias tape on the inside. I also added thicker straps that are sewn in on either side of the yoke, to make it more suitable as a jumper for colder weather. Because the straps in the original Popover Sundress are tied so there is enough wiggle room to put it on, I needed to have the open back to fit it onto my daughter. Thankfully that required a really great button, and in a super contrasting colour to match my living room decor – red! The button on the back needed some friends – and the front of the jumper needed a little colour – so I added two to the front as well.
I really had some doubts while working on this one. The knit was finicky, and the “lines” created by the sweater knit were really obviously crooked if I didn’t stitch it straight. It was also very thick – which is not a really great combination when you are trying to make something in a hurry (as usual!). I do love that because the knit was so thick I ended up lining the yoke and straps, and the edges of the pocket with a really great red quilting cotton. And, bonus, I have had this piece of fabric in my stash for at least a couple of years and hadn’t used it because it is a really bright (almost glowing!) red – perfect for a lining!
“Look! Pockets!”
The shape of the dress looked really “boring” without the pocket – which wasn’t in my original plan. I think I drove my husband crazy because he was working in our shared space as well and I kept asking him if the jumper looked okay. I think I almost gave up on it at least twice. I am SO glad I kept going, and am really happy with how it turned out. It really helped to be able to try it on my daughter about 3/4 of the way through – it looked so good it helped me to keep going.
“Peek-A-Boo!”
If you are playing along I’d love to see what you are making – make sure to leave a comment with a link below! If you want to see what everyone is doing, make sure to visit the Project Run and Play Week 1 sew along link-up, and read their blog for updates on the contestants. I’m excited to see who is the winner! Next week’s theme is candy – and I’ve got two ideas – my husband even bought me some inspiration for that one last night. I love when sewing and sugar meet up!
by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 10, 2013
I thought, since Shelly from Figgy’s Patterns was so kind as to give all of us a discount code (good until Wedesday! – get the discount code here!) that I would highlight it again today by making another Figgy’s pattern. This Banyan tunic has been in the back of my head for a while, all I needed was more fabric. Just for the record, I did look in my stash, but I did not have anything wide enough that was appropriate to use – off to the fabric store – too bad (wink!).
Figgy’s Banyan Tunic
I bought two rainbow coloured zippers a while ago on a half price sale – and thought, with two girls around, that the zippers would make “their project” apparent when it came to mind. This is it! I love the exposed zipper – it gives a more deconstructed look. My oldest gave me a huge grin when I showed her the back of the shirt. That’s good enough for me!
The fabric is a mid-to-lightweight jersey knit. Good for the transition from summer to fall. It drapes amazingly well, and is super soft. I think I need a shirt with the leftovers. Because it was a bit thicker and did not have the extra stretch of a lightweight knit it was much easier to stitch, thank goodness. I love the colour on my daughter, and we happened to have the perfect ($1 on sale) hat to “go with it”!
Though I like the shape of the original Banyan tee – the cap sleeves are so cute – I seem to end up making mine in chilly weather. So, I have extended the sleeves to make them longer in this tee. I also didn’t use a bias cut neck band because the time I did, it was so long the neck did not look right. I have made them since with a neck band cut across the fabric direction with the most stretch, and they have worked out fine. I do stretch the neck band a little as I stitch it on, maybe 25%, and have a little left over once I get to the ending point. This helps it not to sag and gap when it is being worn.
I stitched most of this shirt with my double-needle, but found out that it is not as good a solution as I was hoping. Because the double top threads use the same bobbin thread, it creates great stretch for sewing knits. However, it also allows the seam to pull apart so that the stitching is visible from the outside in places like the armscye and side seams. In the end I re-stitched the armscye seams with a single ballpoint needle, and left the side seams because they were not as visible. I think if I had used a more matchy thread they would have been “fine”, but I have learned my lesson – Don’t be lazy, change the needle!
Talking about changing the needle – this shirt was also an exercise in patience with changing my thread! I top-stitched and hemmed everything in a really great metallic variegated (rainbow – of course!) Gutermann thread. I love how it looks and it matches up well with the zipper. The girl’s both like how sparkly it is too. Anyhow – because of the change in thread my stitching went something like this…. 1. Stitch shoulder and neck band – Purple – Double Needle. 2. Stitch zipper – Black – Single Needle 3. Stitch other shoulder – Purple – Double Needle 4. Top-Stitch neckline and Pocket – Metallic – Double Needle 5. Stitch Arm & Side Seams – Purple – Double Needle 6. Stitch…. anyhow, you get the picture! I think I spent as much time changing needles and thread as I spent sewing everything together!
The fit of Figgy’s Patterns is really good, and true to the sizing chart. I have not had problems with it when I have actually measured my child before picking the size! (Note to self – print and fill out your Thread Riding Hood measurment chart! Note to you – I stopped writing this blog post and printed two charts…) Okay, we’re back! So, needless to say, I think I should have picked the 4/5 instead of the 6/7 – it looks cute, but is a bit big. I also decided to make it in an 8/9 length to better cover her leggings, so it looks even larger. At least the shirt should last us a few years!
And the silliness ensues… was it the lollipop or the late nights? No one will ever know… at least we are having fun!
I realized today that Project Run and Play, Season 7 is up and going! If you’re quick you can still enter their giveaway for the next few days. I’m hoping to remix the Oliver and S Popover Dress and add it to the sew-along list before Thursday. I’ve got a fun idea I can’t wait to see if I can make work! You can click on the link for a run-down of the Sew-Along themes for the 4 weeks. Are you going to Run and Play along?!
by Sherri Sylvester | Sep 5, 2013
Today I get to tell you how to remix your Scirocco pattern! I know you have seen the super-twirly Empire Waist Sundress I’ve made using the Scirocco pattern from Figgy’s. I’ve also made her Banyan tee, it turns out really cute. And of course the Scirocco-based bathing suit too! Figgy’s directions are very easy to follow and I love her clothing designs. There are some new Fall patterns coming out soon. Follow Figgy’s on Facebook so you know when they arrive! (You’ve also got to check out the Sunki. I love the pockets, it’s next on my list!)
I’m also super excited to be able to give you a discount code to buy this or any other of Figgy’s patterns! Figgy’s owner, Shelly, has kindly offered a discount for Thread Riding Hood readers – 10% off all Figgy’s Patterns! Use the discount code: “FIGGYSTRH”. The code expires September 11, 2013, so you’ve got a week to buy them!
You can read more about this dress in my July post here. I LOVE how twirly it is, and of course, so does my daughter! The twist in the back is one of my favorite things to sew this summer. Hooray for Figgy’s!
Want to get started making your own Empire Waist Scirocco Sundress?
You will need:
- fabric – green tiered ruffles – aprox. 1/2 metre for size 4/5
- fabric – pink tiered ruffles + bodice, lining – aprox. 1 metre for size 4/5
- Figgy’s Scirocco pattern
- 1/4″ wide elastic
- ruler, pencil, paper scissors (for altering pattern)
Before you begin:
- Print, glue/tape and cut out your Scirocco pattern pieces as per the directions. You will only need to print pages 13-18, because we will be using only the Dress Front and Dress Back pattern pieces for this tutorial
- Note: I made this dress in a size 4/5 – you may need to adjust some measurements if you are making the dress significantly larger or smaller. I have noted how to change the measurements throughout the tutorial.
Altering & Drafting the Pattern Pieces:
Bodice Height: (1) Get one of your daughter’s empire waist dresses. Measure from the shoulder to the bottom of the empire waist. My measurement was 8″. (If you don’t have one handy, borrow a measurement from an empire waist dress in the correct size the next time you are at the mall!) (2) Mark a 1/2″ seam allowance on the shoulder seams of both pattern pieces. (3) Using the Dress Front, measure down from your shoulder seam allowance mark to your empire bodice measurement length + a 1/2″ seam allowance. I measured 8.5″. (4) Use this measurement to mark a line across the Dress Front that is parallel to the bottom of the pattern piece. (5) Mark the Dress Back in the same way. Cut along the new length lines of both pieces – you now have your empire length Dress Front.
Dress Back Modification: (6) Measure 2″ in from the side of the Dress Back and mark. (7) Use a ruler to draw a line from the bottom of the centre back (see photo) to your 2″ mark. Gently curve the line and cut to finish your new empire length Dress Back pattern piece.
Tiered Ruffles Height: Measure the length of your sample dress from the bottom of the empire waist to the hem (or other desired length). This dress has 4 tiers, so divide your length measurement by 4 to get “X”. Each tier height = “X” + 1″ (The 1″ is for a 1/2″ seam allowance on each edge). My ruffles were 5″ high each. IMPORTANT: Add 1″ extra to the bottom tier so your ruffles are all the same height after hemming.
Tiered Ruffles Length: The top tier should be double the chest measurement of your child. I rounded down from a 22″ chest measurement to 20″ and doubled it to get a 40″ length top tier. From there I added 20″ to each tier, as follows. Tier 1: 40″ length, Tier 2: 60″ length, Tier 3: 80″ length, Tier 4 (bottom): 100″ length. Tier 1 is almost half of the Tier 4 length. Depending on your Tier 1 measurement, you can add/remove length as necessary to achieve the same proportions. Note: You can also use the Dress Front pattern piece as a guide – measure across the bottom of the Dress Front, double to get the “chest measurement” and then double it to get your Tier 1 length. (If you use the Dress Front measurement your finished Sundress will be fuller than mine, because of the ease already factored into the pattern piece.)
Back Elastic Casing: You will need a small piece of fabric to use as a casing for the back elastic. It should be 2.5″ tall (to fit 3 casings for 1/4″ elastic) and the length of your chest measurement. (We will be cutting the length a bit shorter later on in the tutorial, mine ended up being 17″ wide.)
Cutting your Fabric:
(8) Cut out your altered Dress Front and Back pieces as per the Scirocco instructions (don’t forget the lining!). My fabric looked the same on both sides, so I found it helpful to put a safety pin the right side of each piece as I cut it out, as per this trick. (9) Cut 1 each of the 4 ruffled tiers based on your drafted sizes above – Tier Height by Tier Length. You will likely need to stitch several pieces together to get the desired length. Don’t forget to add an extra inch to the height of the 4th (bottom) tier to allow for hemming. Also cut out the Back Elastic Casing piece (drafted above), you will need 1 of these.
Here we go:
(10) Follow the Scirocco directions (Figgy’s steps 1 through 18) to make the bodice for the dress. (11) Match up the short ends of your tier pieces, one at a time (right sides together) – pin, stitch at 1/2″. Serge, zigzag or trim with pinking shears to finish the edges. (12) Gather the top edge of the three bottom tiers to the width of the tier above. (Size of the top edge of Tier 4 should equal the full width of the Tier 3 piece etc.) DO NOT gather the edge of the top tier yet. (13) Match the top edge of each tier with the bottom edge of the tier above it. Pin, stitch at 1/2″.
(14) Finish the raw edges. (15) You should now have the entire skirt sewn portion together. (16) Top-stitch each tier. Stitch close to the bottom edge of each tier, making sure your seam allowances are pressed up so they are “caught” in the top-stitching. (17) Hem the bottom ruffle. Iron the raw edge up 1/2″, then 1/2″ again. Press well and stitch close to the top folded edge.
(18) Mark the “sides” of your skirt with pins along the top edge. Measure between the pins and subtract 4″. Cut your Back Elastic Casing to this length. (19) Hem both short raw edges of your Back Elastic Casing by folding and pressing under 1/4″, then 1/4″ again and stitching. (20) Iron up 1/4″ on one bottom edge of your Back Elastic Casing (this guide is really helpful). Press well.
(21) Centre the raw (unfolded edge) of the Back Elastic Casing right sides together on the back top edge of the dress skirt. Stitch with a 1/2″ seam. (22) Gather the skirt top along the raw edge to match the bodice bottom edge. Do not ruffle the Back Elastic Casing. (23) Pin the bodice to the skirt, right sides together along the front of the bodice. (24) Match up the back dress bottom edges with each edge of the elastic casing. (Note: Gather the skirt top more or less to match the length to fit.) (25) Stitch with a 1/2″ seam allowance, finish your edges.
(26) Iron the Back Elastic Casing down, enclosing the seam allowance. (27) Stitch across the bottom edge of the Back Elastic Casing, and twice more to create 3 evenly spaced casing tunnels (see photo). (28) Insert elastic through the casings, each piece should be roughly 1/3 the length of your child’s chest measurement (This will likely give you more than you need). Pin the end of each elastic piece on one end, and safety pin it at the other end. (29) Stitch over the pinned elastic in a rectangular shape to catch each elastic twice. This is visible on the outside of the dress – so be tidy! (30) Try the dress on and adjust the elastic as needed. (My elastic casing ended up being 6″ long once inserted in the casing.) Stitch as per Step 29. Done!
Hooray! Put it on a twirly someone and take a picture! I’d love to see your creation. If you would take a second to post a photo on the Thread Riding Hood Facebook page that would be amazing! You might even get shared (if you’d like) on a Made by You blog post!
